2 MICRODOSING: easy does it
A term first used in pharmaceutics, microdosing is the practice of taking micro amounts of medical drugs to minimise any negative effects, but with the aim of still providing benefits, explains dermatologist Dr Jason Thomson of Skin + Me. It entered common parlance recently, when some people started taking mini quantities of hallucinogenic drugs to manage mental health issues, such as anxiety and depression. ‘Reportedly, their symptoms improved without them getting high,’ says Thomson. It’s a concept the skincare world has pounced on as a way to dial down damage from overuse of irritating actives, while still seeing skin improvements. ‘In skincare, microdosing means using acids, vitamin C and retinoids at much lower concentrations than the evidence-based strengths,’ says Thomson. ‘Dermatologists have done it for years; it’s how we build tolerance to these potent ingredients.’ Andre Condit, the founder of Spectacle Skincare, agrees: ‘The integrity of the skin’s protective barrier must be our priority because any irritation is damaging.’ Microdosing means there’s more chance we’ll keep using a product, too. ‘Something like retinol requires consistent use to get results,’ explains Dr Nancy Ilaya, global scientific director at Kiehl’s. ‘Irritating side-effects stop people using it, but drip-feeding skin with a lower dosage avoids the spikes of active ingredient that cause issues. This means people keep using it; that’s how you get great-looking skin.’