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SMOKED SALMON WINNER

London Smoke & Cure Sashimi-grade

Smoked Salmon £14.95 for 200g; londonsmokeandcure.co.uk 78/100 ‘Sashimi-grade’ describes top-quality fish that is so fresh, it can be eaten raw. London Smoke & Cure confidently applies the term to these thick, tender slices, lightly smoked to allow for the natural buttery sweetness and salt-water flavour.

RUNNERS-UP

Tesco Finest Scottish Smoked Salmon £4.80 for 120g 77/100

There was just one point in it for our runner-up. With a noticeable marbling of fat, these thin slices had a salty-sweet, buttery flavour, balanced with a whiff of smoke. M&S Collection Scottish Mild & Delicate Smoked Salmon £5 for 100g 76/100

From a practical point of view, these lean slices were easy to separate, making plating up a doddle. The fish has been twice-smoked, which imparts a lingering bonfire note, with a saltiness that builds with each bite. Smooth and plump, this is a fresh, clean-tasting fish.

Bleiker’s Smokehouse Oak Smoked

Salmon £4.50 for 100g; Tesco, Morrisons, Sainsbury’s 75/100

Texture is everything when it comes to smoked salmon, and Bleiker’s produce vibrant, marbled slithers with a satisfying bite. Expect an excellent balance of mild smoke and salt from this soft, buttery and slightly oily salmon.

BEST BUDGET

Asda Extra Special Hand Finished Muscovado & Sea Salt Cured Scottish

Smoked Salmon £4 for 120g 75/100

This has an even layer of cracked black pepper and lemon zest and our panel felt it tasted more expensive than it was. The peppery heat is better suited to adult palates, with a heavy smoke and touch of citrus.