Palácio da Lousã, Lousã, Portugal

If you love hiking, cycling, swimming or paddling in mountain rivers and waterfalls, or simply want to explore more of Portugal than the Algarve’s beaches and cool Lisbon, then Lousa, in the centre of the country, is the perfect place to start. The town itself is unprepossessing, but boutique hotel Palácio da Lousã, a converted 18th-century palace, is a gem. Some of its former grandeur remains: there’s a sweeping stone staircase, country-house drawing room and cosy panelled dining room with muralled ceiling. Elsewhere, the 21st century is very much in evidence; in smart, well-appointed bedrooms and in the light-filled spa overlooking the hotel’s pretty gardens (a lovely spot to laze on a sunlounger in sunnier months).

The spa prides itself on using local artisan brand D’natureza in its treatments, many of which take inspiration from the landscape and history of the area: a soporific hot stone massage is named Candal after an ancient schist (rock) village in the nearby pine-covered mountains, while another, Talasnal, lends its name to a massage using rosemary and lavender or ginger candles. With a genuine focus on relaxation, treatments in the hands of gentle therapists feel unhurried, releasing tension and stilling the mind – so much so that our reviewer’s partner started snoring softly towards the end of the Ritual for Two (a full body exfoliation, mini facial and aromatic candle massage with two therapists in the twin-bedded treatment room). It was also the first time he had worn paper pants and a hairnet (worth flagging in advance, perhaps, to body exfoliation newbies).

Continuing the ethos of keeping it local, the Palácio’s talented young chef draws on regional produce with fresh takes on traditional dishes as well as his own creations, varying from the hearty to fine dining – all exceptional. As is the breakfast spread… just what you need before a hike.

GOOD TO KNOW Book a tuk-tuk (electric; it’s eco-friendly here) tour at reception to take you into the mountains to see the historic schist villages, breathe in the fresh air and soak up spectacular views. Or take a half-hour drive to university town Coimbra, a World Heritage Site and Portugal’s capital in medieval times.

 Accommodation, from around £137; treatments, from around £42; Ritual for Two, around £256 (lousa.octanthotels.com)