‘Black-tie, ballroom dancing and Bear Grylls’
James Cunningham found Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth an elegant way to travel
Cunard voyages transport you to the golden age of travel. On Queen Elizabeth, liveried attendants greet you in the Art Deco lobby (with marquetry designed by royalty, no less) and guests sweep down the grand staircase dressed to the nines. On gala evenings (there are at least two on every seven-night voyage), gentlemen in tuxedos escort ladies in floor-length gowns for pre-dinner cocktails before taking their seats at one of the elegant White Star Service restaurants, where bow-tied waiters, crisp white tablecloths and leatherbound menus promise culinary delights. Afterwards, guests take their seats at the Royal Court Theatre before taking a spin under the ballroom’s crystal chandeliers as the orchestra plays.
I joined a sailing to Alaska and loved every minute – and not for the first time. I’m a Cunard convert, having sailed on Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria. While not everyone loves dressing up (and you don’t have to in the Golden Lion pub or at the buffet), I find it turns a voyage into an event to remember – and that’s before you even get where you’re going! Most famous for its transatlantic crossings (everyone from Ed Sheeran to Audrey Hepburn has done one), Cunard also sails to ports across the world, including, of course, Alaska. Plus, a fourth ship, Queen Anne, is launching next year.
At the sail-away toast,
I sipped a glass of Laurent-perrier and watched Vancouver, disappear behind me.
There are four classes of accommodation on board, ranging from the Britannia and Britannia Club to the Princess and Queens Grill. From lowest to highest, these indicate the size and amenities of your accommodation as well as dictating to which of the four main restaurants you’ll be assigned. Most guests are booked into Britannia (the class I usually sail in) but this time, I get to try a Princess Grill suite, complete with lounge area, walk-in dressing space and generous bathroom with Penhaligon’s toiletries.
As well as your designated dining area, there are two speciality restaurants – the Steakhouse at the Verandah and Frontier at the Lido (serving tasty Alaskan fare). But as delicious as the breakfasts, lunches and dinners are, it’s vital to save room for Cunard’s famous Afternoon Tea. A timehonoured tradition, at 3.30pm every day, waiters begin their parade through the Queens Room, at the centre of the ship, while everyone claps in anticipation of sweet and savoury treats. Also unique to Cunard is the Insights programme, a series of expert lectures and workshops, as well as themed voyages. This time, we’re joined by adventurer Bear Grylls, who recounts his time exploring the Alaskan wilds with then President Obama and travelling to some of the world’s most remote places.
Shore excursions are not to be missed, either. I got up close and personal with a glacier at the Tracy Arm fjord (where the ice glows blue) and explored the fascinating Icy Strait Point in Hoonah.
Back on board, our final night was spent sipping cocktails in the Commodore Club bar, followed by an indulgent dinner and one last whirl around the dancefloor. It’s always sad to disembark a Cunard Queen, but hopefully it won’t be long before I step on board again – I’ll just have to get my tux dry-cleaned first.
SAIL AWAY
Cunard (cunard.com) offers a 10-night Alaska voyage on Queen Elizabeth from £1,149pp in a Britannia Inside Stateroom, departing 11 June 2024. Flights and pre-cruise hotel can be arranged on request via Cunard.