Grazia (UK)

It’s THE SEASON OF THE WAIST

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FOR THE PAST FEW YEARS IN fashion, ‘waist’ has been a dirty word – cue loose, androgynou­s tailoring, oversized knitwear and slip dresses that skim rather than shape. But all that is over. Rejoice, all ye with an hourglass figure! We’re calling it now: A/W ’16 is the season of the waist, and everything from workwear to outerwear has received the nipped-in treatment.

At Balenciaga, new creative director Demna Gvasalia (of Vetements fame) took his cue from the suits of the late 1940s, nodding not only to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s own mid-century curvy two-pieces, but to Dior’s iconic 1947 New Look collection, and namely the Bar Suit, with its moulded, sculpted jacket that narrows the waist and perfectly rounds out the hips.

But back to this season and what’s in store. Over at Prada, you’ll find those great khaki military coats accessoris­ed with a bold white cotton waist-cincher, and check out the double-waisting of belt over corset on the brocade dresses.

Kim Kardashian, champion of waisttrain­ers and Coca-cola bottle curves, has worn her black Prada corset over an XL sweatshirt (see right) and fits-like-a-glove dress, but it’s Loewe who provided the

waist-seeker’s answer to a pair of Spanx: moulded leather bustiers like armour over flowing dresses. And according to Saint Laurent and Isabel Marant, supersized ’80s belts in metallics and zebra are the accessorie­s to pair with this season’s minis.

The front row are getting waisted, too. Susie Lau laced a Prada corset over a Jacquemus mix’n’match dress, while Taylor Tomasi Hill topped off a sculpted top with a neat black waist belt. At the more wearable end of the spectrum, there’s the street-style trend for giving an hourglass shape to your coat by layering a contrastin­g belt over the top.

So, how will you waist? And remember, we’ve all got one, which is a good start. Those loops at the top of your jeans do have a purpose, so begin there – Uterqüe’s snake-clasp number is our gateway belt of choice. Save the corsetry-and-lacing for night and try nipping in your summer dresses instead; a bright belt over florals now, and a military coat in winter. The marvellous thing about this trend is that you only need buy one thing to layer over everything you already own – and hey presto, you’ve nailed the new season silhouette. It really is a cinch.

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