Fashion’s race row
As racial controversy hit Paris Couture Week, Ateh Jewel says it has simply exposed the insidious toxic radiation of casual racism
Last tuesday, the fashion entrepreneur Miroslava Duma uploaded a picture on Instagram Stories to her 1.6m followers. It was a personal note from her friend, fashion designer Ulyana Sergeenko, which read, ‘ To my n****s in Paris’. (A reference to Kanye West’s song NP.) The backlash began immediately. And intensified when, later that evening, a disturbing video from 2012 surfaced with Duma making homophobic and transphobic comments about the blogger Bryanboy and transgender model Andreja Pejić. Bryanboy, Naomi Campbell and many more members of the fashion community weighed in, with Campbell stating, ‘ This better not be real.’
It was, of course. And more fuel was poured on the fire by Sergeenko’s defence of using the N-word. ‘I was born in a small town in East Kazakhstan, my daughter is half Armenian.’ As if somehow her daughter’s Armenian heritage justified it. When really, in my
opinion, it’s tantamount to the old ‘my best friend is black, so I can’t be racist’. Which highlights the ‘casual racism’ that many people, including myself, are exposed to on a daily basis. From being followed by security in posh shops, as people assume I’m a thief, to being told by an irate female driver that I couldn’t possibly have a resident’s parking permit in the area I live in.
This has to stop. It’s unacceptable to plead ignorance based on one’s culture or lack of cultural exposure. Sergeenko also said, ‘Kanye West is one of my most favourite musicians and NP is one of my most favourite songs. And yes, we call each other the N word when we want to believe that we are just as cool as the guys who sing it.’
Here lies the core problem – and outrage at Sergeenko’s comments. The fact her perception that black culture is ‘cool’, ‘a look’, a bit like donning ‘ black face’ for Halloween or frat houses throwing ‘ghetto’ parties. It’s this form of demeaning behaviour and objectification with the use of the N word, which is damaging. It smacks of cultural appropriation.
Duma also acknowledged her wrongdoings, which many felt was a PR stunt to protect her business interests. She said, ‘It is true that I come from a culture where words and attitudes may be different than the Western ideals that I, in fact, have come to understand and accept.’
This whole episode has exposed the low-level toxic radiation of casual racism, which occurs behind closed doors. Where a private note and response exposed underlining ignorance, a sense of entitlement and a lack of respect for black heritage and culture.
But ‘ignorance’ is no valid defence – not in the 21st century. Not from a woman who considers herself a tech entrepreneur, with access to limitless information and current affairs – at her fingertips.
The fact that Sergeenko even stated that her friend, ‘naively posted my private card to her on her social media, that we meant nothing wrong and didn’t realise the consequences’, sends a shiver down my spine, as it suggests to me that Duma wasn’t au fait with the rules of keeping your backward and bigoted opinions to yourself.
It’s deeply disappointing that women in positions of such influence, display such ignorance, especially as the fashion world should be open to all. It’s time for us to educate ourselves and join the 21st century.