Make ours a cocktail suit!
’TIS THE SEASON to shed your inhibitions. We’re not just talking socially, of course, but sartorially as well. After all, at what other time of year do sequins, gobstopper jewels and novelty knits pass as positively pedestrian? It’s enough to make those of us with a more pared-back persuasion take cover until January.
But there is a solution; a festive fashion safe space nestled somewhere between Sugar Plum Fairy and Scrooge that’s glamorous without being gaudy. Enter the cocktail suit, which made waves on the A/W ’19 catwalks everywhere from Alexander Mcqueen (ruffled sleeves and trains) to Gabriela Hearst (grown-up satin) and Celine by Hedi Slimane (razor-sharp tuxedos). The high street also has excellent versions: plum velvet at & Other Stories and lavish sequins at Uterqüe. ‘We have noticed the demand for evening tailoring is increasing,’ says Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director at Net-a-porter, which has suitably wow options including gold lamé Ralph & Russo smoking suits and sequin leopard from Redemption. ‘The best-selling styles have a point of difference, such as embroidery or lace detailing.’
The A-list have clearly already got the memo as well: Victoria Beckham is a tuxedo devotee and we’re still dreaming about the red velvet Tom Ford suit Julianne Moore wore last month (Santa, pleeeease!). Last week, we also spied Gwyneth Paltrow in a Goop tux, Kourtney Kardashian in Naeem Khan pinstripes and Rosie Huntingtonwhiteley in sexy, swagger-worthy Versace.
So why the appeal? ‘An evening suit at Christmas time is the sartorial equivalent of a cool drink of water when everyone else is squiffy,’ says Vogue fashion features editor Ellie Pithers. ‘It’s subtly subversive – party season’s left-field take, almost 100 years after Marlene Dietrich made it her signature.’
Certainly, attitude is everything. ‘For me the best cocktail suit has a sense of ease to it. When a woman looks comfortable but put together at the same time, that is the holy grail of stylish dressing,’ says Tibi designer Amy Smilovic, whose white hot twill two-piece with staple-detailing is the definition of modern power dressing. She recommends looking for a jacket with a relaxed, soft shoulder. ‘Or a pant that has some slouch to it.’
There are certain rules to abide by if you want to boss the after-dark suit. ‘Never wear a check, tweed or pattern suit for evening,’ says Giuliva Heritage’s Margherita Cardelli. Seek out sumptuous fabrics, sharp silhouettes and inhabit with confidence. Turbo-charged tailoring is less 9-5, more 5-9 – whether that’s 9pm or 9am is up to you…