It’s your super-useful list: the trends set to shape your new season
meet the essential 18 – the trends, innovators and shows that will be shaping your new season
1 BIG DRESS ENERGY
The Oscars has been delayed till 30 April, so nominees have an extra two months to find ‘the one’. Wouldn’t Viola Davis (tipped for glory for
Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom) look sensational in bright tangerine JW Anderson? How about Pieces Of A Woman’s Vanessa Kirby in Paco Rabanne’s armour as eveningwear? Other fantasy red-carpet moments? Halpern’s feathers, Kenzo’s headgear and Christopher John Rogers’ OTT tiers.
2. ARTS AND CRAFTS
The soothing joy of hand crafting was celebrated in a big way for S/S ’21. Bethany Williams’ latest collection with Magpie Project – a Newhambased charity supporting mothers and children in temporary accommodation – transformed children’s drawings, with the help of artist Melissa Kitty Jarram, into exuberant prints and patterns. At Gabriela Hearst (one woman guaranteed to have a great year, as the incoming creative director at Chloé and a favourite of First Lady Jill Biden), a hand-crocheted dressof-many-colours stole the show.
3. ‘PARKCORE’
The official timeline of lockdown trends: cottagecore, regencycore, parkcore. OK, we made up the last one, but it is A Thing. Gucci’s new campaign, Winter In The Park, sees Alexa Chung, Celeste and Vanessa Kirby wearing their Sunday best to sit on park benches. If you need inspiration for your 12,456th walk, this is it.
4 FIRST BASE
As the weather thaws, baseball caps will stage a comeback. Ideal for keeping your hair dry and going incognito, they made a splash at Celine, adding a dose of le sportive to preppy trench coats and ballet pumps.
5. BREATHE EASY
The trouser suit seems redundant right now. The lounge suit, however, definitely has legs. Spotted at Qasimi, Jacquemus and Dior, this is tailoring that will practically feel like a tracksuit on the comfort scale.
6. HOT ON YOUR HEELS
Our shoes have been neglected for a year, but fancy footwear – aka clashing your shoes (OK, heels!) with your outfit – is going to major in everyone’s re-emergence wardrobe.
7. I(PHONE) CANDY
We’re loath to encourage more screen time but, let’s be real. Since we are all spending so much time glued to our phones, they might as well look good. Loewe’s elephant case has got to be the ultimate for taking selfies, while a beaded wrist chain is the most stylish way to ensure yours never plops in a puddle again.
8 SUPER SLIP-ONS
Can Hermès be the house to woo us back into clogs? That’s the question that hung in the air after the brand’s spring show, where every look was worn with a pair of sturdy wooden-soled shoes. The fashion jury might be out, but our verdict’s in: 100%.
9 HEADLINE ACT
Amanda Gorman’s headband game has gone from strength to strength since inauguration day, culminating with a pearl halo at the Super Bowl. Pick your accessory of choice, whether it’s a giant gingham bow or ‘90s claw clip, and prepare to wow on video calls.
10. CARRIED AWAY
Whether or not she reprises the tutu for And Just Like That…, Carrie Bradshaw’s most famous dress got a reboot for S/S ’21. Alexander Mcqueen’s was given a grunge update with lace-up stomper boots, while Molly Goddard’s rose red frock dialled the frill-factor up to 11.
11. THIGH’S THE LIMIT
The high hemline is set for a stellar year, making its optimistic presence felt at Coperni, Chanel and Miu Miu, where it was straight out of the ’60s. Maybe this summer will be just as swinging?
12 HEART OF GLASS
Now that everyone’s stuck snapping their mirror selfies from home, the actual mirror now matters. Take your cue from Monikh Dale, whose home inspires almost as much envy as her wardrobe, and opt for something quietly statementmaking that will go with every outfit – and keep it streak-free.
13. BIOPIC SEASON
TV fashion has gone from strength to strength during the pandemic, but 2021 belongs to the biopic. Prada is behind the swoony stage outfits in The United States Vs Billie Holiday, including an ivory column dress with a sweetheart neckline and crystal embroidery, while fans of The Crown can look forward to Spencer. Kristen Stewart is the latest actor to give the camera some side-eye and, judging by the film’s first stills, looks set to maintain Princess Diana’s status as Gen Z’s favourite ‘new’ style crush.
14. STROLL ON
Stroller fashion is trending thanks to new mums Chloë Sevigny and Gigi Hadid. The top prize, however, goes to Jodie Turner-smith. Have you ever seen a cooler buggy (or mum, for that matter)?
15 SOCK PARTY
News alert: socks and sandals should no longer be saved for putting out the bins. According to Hailey Bieber et al, the combo can now be worn with leggings, sweatshirts and trophy bags. Just check the weather forecast before heading out. This isn’t LA.
16. POETRY IN MOTION
We’re used to fashion being a visual medium, but lately it’s become wordy too. Slogans, song lyrics and even simple pronouns appeared at Raf Simons, Louis Vuitton and, most beautifully, at Dries Van Noten. His ‘You’ blouse has got our name on it.
17 A-GAME
Onitsuka Tiger’s spring brand ambassador, Willow Smith, explains how to give sportswear a sleek new spin. Now if only we could perfect our high kick...
18 SPOTLIGHT ON AFRICAN FASHION
Mark your calendars for June 2022. No, not a friend’s rescheduled wedding, but the V&A’S next fashion deep-dive, this time lifting the lid on the clothes of a particular continent: Africa. The landmark exhibition will feature more than 250 objects, drawn from the personal archives of iconic mid-20th century designers and influential contemporary creatives, and promises to champion the diversity, artistry and ingenuity of African fashion.