Suits break free of the office
TRADITIONAL WORKWEAR may have fallen out of fashion, but the suit is going nowhere. See Max Mara’s Resort show in Lisbon last month – sharp two-pieces were very much the dress code, with actors Claire Danes and Ashley Park among those who’d got the memo. The Homeland star wore a linen pinstripe version (‘It’s a suit that breathes,’ she laughed backstage), while the Emily In Paris star wore her white suit sans, well, anything. ‘I feel very strong in this suit, even though it’s super-feminine,’ she said of her decidedly non-corporate move. ‘We decided not to wear a shirt under it because that feels very me. I feel very safe but also very sexy.’
That sentiment is perhaps exactly why suiting is having a moment. A more wearable alternative to this summer’s ubiquitous bodycon, Matchesfashion.com say that sales and searches for lightweight suiting are surging – with customers flocking to brands including Max Mara, Frankie Shop and Raey. There’s been a particular uptick in blush-tone blazers (such as Max Mara’s Rapido jacket in pink, £895) and waistcoat/trousers sets for a new twist on the traditional suit. (Try Frankie Shop’s Maesa waistcoat or Mango if you want to buy into the trend, and add Alexa Chung at Wimbledon to your mood board, pronto.)
One man who knows his way around a great suit is Max Mara creative director and tailoring maestro Ian Griffiths – whose white waistcoat was one of the standout looks from the 2023 Resort show. The secret to the enduring appeal of the suit? Its simplicity. ‘Fluidity is the key. You need to be able to put that suit on in the morning and not give it a second thought,’ he told Grazia. ‘That’s how you give your best performance, not when you’re anxious that you don’t look right.’ As for specific styling tips? ‘For real elegance, go for a wide-legged shape in a fluid fabric like Claire and Ashley did.’
Anyone wanting to buy into hardworking clothes that will slot straight into their wardrobe would have been spoilt for choice with his Resort collection offering. Yes, there were the delicious camel coats Max Mara is so rightly famous for, but also pencil skirt and blouse combos that screamed modern career girl. For evening? Take your pick from a series of maxi jewel-toned cotton dresses that looked supremely easy to throw on and go, or a white silk jumpsuit. ‘In whatever field
she works, she’s the best. She’s smart, pulled together and in control,’ Griffiths said of the woman he designs for at Max Mara. ‘She loves discreet glamour and understated chic, but that definitely doesn’t mean she wants to blend into the background. On the contrary, she wants to be noticed but for the right reasons. She’s aiming for that “quiet wow”.’
As seen on Ashley, simple can also be sexy – something Griffiths was particularly keen to think about post-covid. ‘She couldn’t wait to get dressed up and get out into the world,’ he said of his customer’s attitude to style now. ‘Dressing up is one of the things she missed most in lockdown.’ Griffiths also has a tip for taking your tailoring from day to night. ‘Wear it next to the skin for a nonchalant sexiness,’ he said. The actor agreed. ‘This is something I’m going to wear forever and ever… except maybe not to a wedding!’ she joked. Thus proving a white suit will work for (almost) all occasions this summer.