Meet the denim that does good
MOST OF US WEAR jeans day in, day out without giving them a second thought. But they’re a big part of fashion’s waste problem. From cotton to factory, making one pair can consume up to 7,000 litres of water. Then you’ve got denim’s stretch factor, which comes from oil-derivative elastane, making it difficult for brands to rework or upcycle the material. The good news is that several brands are taking denim into a more sustainable future, without sacrificing style.
The trailblazer is ELV Denim, founded by stylist-turned-designer Anna Foster, who works with unsold denim, sewing old jeans together to make something new. Her latest collection is a collaboration with The Outnet, transforming the e-tailer’s past-season stock, which would otherwise reside in a warehouse, into a 50-piece collection. Favourites include a drop-waist denim skirt made from up to six pairs of unsold jeans, which has already sold out, and the leather gladiator skirt, made from four pairs of unsold stretch leggings. ‘Just because a garment isn’t loved the first time doesn’t mean it can’t be loved a second time,’ says Foster. Ultimately, the cost of storing surplus stock (or worse, disposing of it) can be very high. Foster doesn’t have room for sceptics. ‘This is not just a collaboration that does environmental good. Financially, this process is beneficial for business, too.’
Five thousand miles away in California, Citizens of Humanity’s new denim strategy is all about using regeneratively farmed cotton, inspired by the 2020 Netflix documentary Kiss The Ground. Its CEO Amy Williams explains, ‘This is more than improving soil health and reducing the use of harmful pesticides, it’s about revitalising entire ecosystems and communities.’
The Citizen Group’s Regenerative Cotton Program converts conventional farms – currently 11 in the US and three in Turkey – rebuilding their systems to be in sync with weather patterns, free from pesticides and with improved biodiversity. Since 2021, some 4 tonnes of regeneratively farmed cotton has been produced, which will form the basis of collections from this month. A great affordable option, meanwhile, is Patrick Grant’s Community Clothing, which manufactures in the UK and makes jeans with at least 40% recycled cotton, starting from £89.
Ultimately, every piece of clothing we buy comes with a wider cost. But, as truly great denim only gets better with age, brands that are doing the best for people and the planet should be welcomed into our wardrobes. Foster is resolute. ‘We have got to learn to place value on clothes again.’