Great West Way Travel Magazine
DRINK LIKE A LOCAL
The proud tradition of producing natural alcoholic beverages, good for home consumption but even better taken in your favourite tavern, inn or public house
The proud tradition of producing natural alcoholic beverages, good for home consumption but even better taken in your favourite tavern, inn or public house
THE RENAISSANCE OF INTEREST in gin, and its vast variety of fascinating flavours, is well documented and the north Hampshire village of Whitchurch is home to the leader of this upsurge, Bombay Sapphire. Less well-known, but magnetic to all ‘ginnoisseurs’, are small-batch products from 137 at Newbury, Ramsbury at Aldbourne, (north of Marlborough) and the outstanding Bristol Dry Gin. Before the gin revolution came, the heroic, sometimes derided, stand taken by dedicated British beer-drinkers, in the late 20th century, against the major breweries’ policy of phasing out ‘real’ ale in favour of the sterile
‘keg’ imitation. The resounding success of this consumers’
campaign has secured the survival of this uniquely
British brew. Not only have the major manufacturers been obliged to maintain production but the increased demand has enabled independent breweries to grow and, with improved technology, low-volume micro-breweries to become commercially viable. You will find a warm welcome at most of these distilleries and breweries, such as the recently established West Berkshire Brewery, in Yattendon, a village to the north-east of Newbury, and world-famous Wadworth Brewery, founded in Devizes in 1852. If you’re lucky, you will have timed your arrival to catch the company’s horse-drawn drays delivering their wares to local hostelries in the town. English wines, too, are gaining
in worldwide popularity and excellent vineries can be found along the route – we suggest you try a’Beckett’s Vineyard at Littleton Panell, near Devizes, Mumfords near Bath, Alder Ridge Vineyard on the edge of Hungerford and Aldwick at Redhill near Bristol. Whether your chosen transport is by car, train, bicycle or canal, along the Great West Way you can discover a handsome choice of top-quality, locally-produced drinks and some of the country’s most perfect pubs in which to enjoy them. There really is a wealth of options – some in quaint, chocolate-box villages, some wayside inns and others in medieval market squares – and we are only scratching at the surface by mentioning just a few of our favourites. You will surely find more!
For fabulous food, in an unmatched Thames-side location, visit TV chef, Tom Kerridge’s 2-Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers in Marlow, Bucks, but you must book, and well in advance. Heading westwards, Yattendon is not only the village base of the West Berkshire Brewery where, in the Taproom, you can sample the full range of their excellent ales but also of the Royal Oak, Yattendon, a pub/restaurant/ hotel which achieves that extraordinary feat of succeeding on all three fronts. The olde-worlde charm of the bar, all beams and open fires (and West Berkshire ales), and the walled garden blend with delicious dining and blissful accommodation.
Since the opening of the by-pass around Newbury, this horse-racing, historic town is mercifully free of traffic and able, once again, to charm the tourists.
A regular in the Good Pub Guide is
The Newbury,a modern, town-centre gastropub in which the food’s high quality is equalled by that of the drinking experience. Venturing ever westwards toward Bristol, the rural landscape welcomes the adventurous traveller, bringing rich rewards. Just off the M4 J14, north of Marlborough, is the splendid Queens Arms, East Garston, an award-winning pub/restaurant/hotel in an idyllic setting. A little further on and the road takes the traveller past two more ‘unmissables’.
The first is the The Red Lion, East Chisenbury, a pretty, family-run country gastropub, with five exquisite
“If you’re lucky, you will have timed your arrival to catch the company’s horse-drawn drays delivering their wares to local hostelries in the town”
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bedrooms on the banks of the River Avon and with the accent on hospitality. Just a few miles away, on the edge of Savernake Forest, is the Three Tuns Freehouse at Great Bedwyn, an authentic, village pub by the side of the Kennet & Avon Canal. The Chef/Proprietor is James Wilsey, who is as proud of his dog-friendly garden and drinker-friendly bar as he is of the honest, locally-sourced food on offer.
There’s also the nearby Royal Oak at the centre of Wootton Rivers, a beautiful thatched village. Wootton Rivers is on the Kennet and Avon canal, just 10 minutes from the historical market town of Marlborough.
Slightly south, and before reaching booming Bristol, we come to the handsome, 16th century inn at Ford, The White Hart, the epitome of a traditional English country pub but with a good restaurant and quality accommodation in case you enjoy the welcome a little too much!
Even in the bustling city centres, there are gems waiting to be unearthed. Bath has the wonderful Whisky Shop in its High Street and in Bristol’s reborn waterside is an uber-cool underground bar, already winning awards for its uniquely modern concept. The Beer Emporium lures the adventurous traveller into its vaults to sample a range of craft ales, ciders and wines and to dine, either in the bar or the adjoining ‘Pepenero’ restaurant.
There is simply not enough print-space to do more than give you a hint of the pleasures open to the thirsty/hungry/ tired ‘pilgrims’ taking to the Great West Way but we hope we have whetted your appetites with our selections.
Whether you are walking, cycling, boating or driving, you will certainly stumble on others, just as good, and wonder at the joys on offer, off the beaten track. Good hunting!