Fine dining at luxury York hotel really is the bees knees
A new restaurant elevates historical property The Grand in York to giddy modern heights, says Amy Crowther
There’s an energetic buzz about The Grand in York, and it’s not all down to the beehives on the roof. The two colonies of industrious residents are being brought up to strength by an experienced beekeeper, but are already supplying honey to The Grand’s newest restaurant – Legacy.
It’s all part of the big question general manager Simon Mahon and his team constantly ask themselves: “What does the hotel of the future look like in a 120-yearold building?”
The Grade 2 listed building housing most of The Grand is hard to miss when you arrive by train. Just a couple of minutes’ walk from York station, you slip through a wide arch in the medieval city walls and The Grand is directly ahead, red brick warm against the ancient grey stone.
It was opened in 1906 as the headquarters for the North Eastern Railway, and these captains of transport and industry did not stint on space or eye-catching features. It’s said that Horace Field, the building’s architect, took inspiration from Sir Christopher Wren, with a nod to Hampton Court Palace’s grand corridors and wide stone staircases. No wonder it was known as a “palace of business”.
The Grand was converted to a hotel in 2010 with the parquet flooring and keystone-corniced arches retained, along with the quirky numbers that designated office doors rather than suites. Huge windows facing the city walls still contain the clever Edwardian double-glazing fitted to keep out the clattering noise of horsedrawn vehicles – and they do just as good a job of shielding the sound of any passing buses packed with sightseers.
One of these rooms with heritage glazing intact is home to Legacy, the intimate new restaurant with an eightcourse tasting menu devised by head chef Ahmed Abdalla. Open since late August, it seats just 26 covers in a room that Simon confessed was once an unloved space.
Now after a sympathetic redesign that pays homage to industrious pioneers of York, with art deco lighting and architectural designs of the hotel writ large on the walls above curved banquettes, it is a welcoming and intimate space where diners get the full attention of Ahmed and restaurant manager Derek Scaife, whose skills as a sommelier are clever and bold.
Ahmed rose to head chef through stints at York favourite Skosh, Yorebridge House in the Dales and stages at Lucknam Park and Whatley Manor.
His enthusiasm for his craft is infectious, and as he treats us to a preview of one of the next dishes likely to be added to the seasonally updated menu – a juicy venison haunch bonbon that coats your mouth with smoky sweetness.
This is familiar food but done with a firm eye on getting the most flavour from hero ingredients that are all sourced as close to The Grand as possible. Fish from Whitby and vegetables from Malton means Ahmed can visit many of his suppliers in less than an hour.
Our party of eight all have different favourite courses, and Ahmed’s not precious about swapping in dishes to work around dietary needs.
My favourite dish – Jersey royal veloute with oak-smoked cheddar and chicken skin crumb – is the most refined version of cheesy chips I’ve encountered and comes with a delicate wafer shaped like an oak leaf for extra crunch.
A close second is the celeriac with black garlic; prettily decorated with tiny nasturtium leaves and covered in a cloud of truffle at the table that adds to the richness of the sweet root vegetable. The pairing for this one is a Scandinavian cider.
The fish course is a dense but sweet halibut with the lightest mousseline sauce followed by a tender trio of Yorkshire lamb from a local farm. When the desserts and cheese plate roll round, we are reunited with our friends, the rooftop bees. Lush honey ice cream and panna cotta are served with zings of yuzu and elderflower to balance out that home-harvested sweetness.
When I checked in, there was a Viking in my bed – Viktor, a charming soft toy included in welcome packs for children.
York itself is a treasure trove of activity for families, from the famous Jorvik Viking Centre where our new friend Viktor is sure to feel at home, to Clifford’s Tower with its new roof deck offering unrivalled city views. The Grand also offers stargazing trips to the North York Moors with an astronomer on hand.
How to plan your trip
Classic double rooms at The Grand (thegrandyork.co.uk) start at £255 on a B&B basis while grand heritage suites start at £515. The eight-course tasting menu is £120pp with £60 for the classical wine flight and £90 for the prestige option.