Grimsby Telegraph

Choosing the best pots to perk up your patio

- By Hannah Stephenson

When it comes to choosing pots there’s a wealth of considerat­ions including the size and shape of the container and which types of plants you’re intending to display in it, along with factors including heat and moisture retention.

Here are a few pointers.

WHICH SIZE?

If you have a broad expanse of paving, clusters of small pots won’t make much impact whereas one or more really large ones can have a greater presence, says horticultu­rist Tom Harris, author of Pots For All Seasons (Pimpernel).

If you’ve a balcony or roof garden, consider the weight of the pot and its contents, especially when you’ve just watered it. If it’s going to be too heavy, take the plant out of the plastic pot you bought it in and place the pot upside down in the permanent pot, resting the plant on it. That way, you won’t need to pack as much compost in. Or bulk the base with polystyren­e.

The bigger the pot, potentiall­y the less you have to water it, as the more compost the pot can hold, the longer it takes to dry out.

However, if you have a small space and available shelving, or even an old ladder which could be upcycled, you can create a fantastic display of plants in much smaller pots. Geraniums are ideal, as they don’t take much watering, and collection­s of succulents also make excellent shows lined up in smaller pots.

WHICH SHAPE?

Round pots are the most common and the easiest to arrange in large displays. Formal, square planters are ideal for geometric looks such as topiary. Square containers are great for creating a continuous line with some space between each container, perfect candidates for a boundary or a wide path. Use different heights of round planters in clusters, with the tallest at the back.

WHICH MATERIAL?

Clay or terracotta containers look lovely in virtually all settings but dry out quicker than plastic and can crack in frost if you don’t buy the frost-proof versions, says the RHS.

Metal is popular, but in a sunny spot it will heat up quickly and can damage the plant’s roots.

Plastic is a contentiou­s issue, but if you buy a plastic container it should last a long time. They are lightweigh­t, you can drill as many drainage holes in them as you need and compost will take longer to dry out in them. You can also paint them to match your colour scheme.

Resin containers are another lightweigh­t option which can look like stone or pottery and are resistant to frost and heat.

Upcycled containers such as teapots, wellies, colourful tins and, if you live at the seaside, discarded lobster pots or little boats, can be a quirky addition to an outdoor space. Old salvage yards can offer chimney pots and clay drainage pipes which are great for trailers and herbs in more traditiona­l spaces.

For a natural effect, stone and concrete containers are ideal, come in smooth or textured finishes and are long-lasting. The problem is that they are heavy, so once they’re in situ you won’t want to move them. Make sure your pot has good drainage holes and be aware they lose moisture through the sides, which will encourage moss and algae, providing a more weathered appearance.

Wood is popular – particular­ly half barrels in which you can potentiall­y even grow a small tree – and can blend into many informal garden schemes. They will eventually rot, but you can make them last longer if you line them with plastic sheeting such as a pond liner and puncture it to allow drainage.

 ?? ?? Thinking outside the pot can work wonders
Thinking outside the pot can work wonders
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 ?? ?? Upcycled containers can be fun and groups of small pots with succulents always look good
Upcycled containers can be fun and groups of small pots with succulents always look good

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