Basque in glory
DAWN COLLINSON SAMPLES THE MANY DELIGHTS OF BILBAO
BILBAO’S most extravagant statement of intent, the Guggenheim museum has just celebrated its 25th birthday. As you arrive in the city via La Salve bridge, you are rewarded with a first glimpse of this groundbreaking example of 20th-century architecture.
The gleaming sculpture of a building, designed by Canadian architect Frank Gehry, is encased in more than 30,000 titanium sheets and is fronted by artist Jeff Koons’ 39ft-high Puppy, perfectly reflecting Bilbao’s assured sense of place.
For all its cultural ambition, and a tongue- in-cheek superiority, the reality of day-to-day Bilbao could hardly be more relaxed.
The port city surrounded by green hills, sits in the Basque country and is devoid of the fast pace which typifies so many other European cities. There is a very laid-back feeling here.
They have their own regional version of tapas and plenty of choice when it comes to locally produced wines.
Bilbao is essentially two quite different cities in one – the new town and the Old Quarter or Casco Viejo which lies across the river, connected by the San Anton arched bridge.
We stayed at the Villa de Bilbao, on the Gran Via de Don Diego Lopez de Haro, the new town’s main avenue. It’s in a prime position for exploring the various shopping, culture, food and drink areas.
Our junior suite, pristine glossy white with tasteful black and white artwork over the enormous bed, had its own private terrace which was overlooked only by the huge Sagrado Corazon de Jesus statue which dominates that end of the avenue.
The beauty of a more compact city like Bilbao is that it’s entirely walkable. Having been dazzled by it on our way into town, the Guggenheim Museum was top of our must-see list and just a short stroll away.
Our other recommended cultural highlights are the Museum of Fine Arts which is open but in the process of a major renovation/floating pavilion expansion courtesy of British architect Norman Foster.
It is home to a handful of masterpieces by the likes of Paul Gauguin and Francis Bacon.
Designer Philippe Starck’s reimagining of an old wine and oil warehouse, the Azkuna Zentroa is another sensational regenerated complex. The 110-year-old building, renovated in 2010, is now a cultural centre with an exhibition space and cinema, supported by 43 columns all crafted in different materials, colours and styles.
It has a sun terrace and spectacular glass-bottomed swimming pool.
Both the old and new towns have their own charms. We wandered to the end of Gran Via de Don Diego Lopez de Haro and crossed the bridge into Casco Viejo to explore the narrow little streets which really buzz with bars and restaurants.
We ended in elegant Plaza Nueva, surrounded in magnificent neoclassical buildings and the place to head for a lively atmosphere. It was just the place for pintxos – Basque tapas.
In fact, practically every eaterie in Bilbao, from the most simple to pricier restaurants, is likely to have an array of pintxos lined up on its bar.
The tradition originated in nearby San Sebastian in the 1930s when bars decided instead of serving tapas, they would create mini versions of their main dishes for customers to try.
Piled on a thin slice of bread, local specialities such as goat’s cheese, tortilla and salt cod croquettes were held in place with a pintxo – the cocktail stick that gives them their name.
Over the next decade, the trend spread across the Basque country and became popular in other cities including Bilbao, and you’ll often find little flags stuck in the pintxos with the ingredients listed in Spanish and English.
And that’s how Bilbao sees in its balmy evenings – standing at bars with a plate of pintxos and a few glasses of ludicrously cheap wine.
San Sebastian, an hour-and-ahalf away by bus, may be considered the culinary capital of Spain or possibly the world, but it’s hard to beat the Bilbao way.
Every eaterie from simple to pricey will have a range of pintxos on the bar