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FRAULEIN GROOVY A long-overdue book shines a light on the brilliant young women who studied at the legendary Bauhaus

A centennial celebratio­n of the Bauhaus women

- By FRANCES HEDGES

With its clean lines and imposing concrete façade, the Bauhaus in Dessau looks from the outside like an austere emblem of masculinit­y. Step inside, however, and the more human aspects of Walter Gropius’ pioneering Modernist movement emerge: almost every surface is painted in a different colour and the ground floor features a huge performanc­e space where students were encouraged to take part in experiment­al dance and theatre production­s.

Just as the playfulnes­s of the Bauhaus is often lost from commentary, so the vital contributi­on that women made to its developmen­t has often been neglected. In principle, there was no barrier to entry when the school opened in the German city of Weimar in 1919 (it subsequent­ly moved to Dessau). In practice, however, female students were offered a restricted choice of subjects, with a dedicated textile group opening in 1920 to keep them out of other more prestigiou­s workshops. Yet this did not prevent women from flourishin­g creatively. ‘We searched… through the swirling chaos of artistic values, full of enthusiasm for our activities, full of hope for our independen­t path,’ wrote Gunta Stölzl, the founder and head of the class, in 1931.

Stölzl, now rightly renowned for the way she combined technical mastery with artistic flair in her textiles, is one of hundreds of women profiled in a new book highlighti­ng the achievemen­ts of the ‘Bauhaus Gals’ (the term, which comes from the German word Bauhausmäd­el, feels archaic now but at the time was embraced by female students as indicative of their aspiration­al outlook). Among the other heroines to appear on its pages are Anni Albers, lately the subject of a retrospect­ive at Tate Modern; Margaretha Reichardt, remembered for her brightly painted wooden toys; and Lucia Moholy, who has only recently received credit for her photograph­s documentin­g the Bauhaus after decades during which they were wrongly attributed to her husband. In some cases, the legacy of these women survives in the form of designs still manufactur­ed today, notably the metalworke­r Marianne Brandt’s striking geometrics­tyle tea sets, put back into production by Alessi after her death in 1983. ‘If your contributi­on has been vital there will always be somebody to pick up where you left off, and that will be your claim to immortalit­y,’ Gropius once told his students. A century after the foundation of the Bauhaus, its female cohort is finally proving him right. ‘Bauhaus Gals’ by Patrick Rössler (£30, Taschen) is published on 15 March.

 ??  ?? A design for a hanging tapestry by Gunta Stölzl from 1928.Left: Stölzl (top centre) among her fellow female students at the Bauhaus in the same year
A design for a hanging tapestry by Gunta Stölzl from 1928.Left: Stölzl (top centre) among her fellow female students at the Bauhaus in the same year
 ??  ?? The former Bauhaus building in Dessau, designed by Walter Gropius in 1925. Above: a Gunta Stölzl design for a wall hangingfro­m 1928
The former Bauhaus building in Dessau, designed by Walter Gropius in 1925. Above: a Gunta Stölzl design for a wall hangingfro­m 1928
 ??  ?? Left: Marianne Brandt in 1928. Right: Anni Albers in Florida in 1938
Left: Marianne Brandt in 1928. Right: Anni Albers in Florida in 1938
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 ??  ?? Below: ‘Red Meander’ (1969) by Anni Albers
Below: ‘Red Meander’ (1969) by Anni Albers
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