GOOD FOUNDATIONS
If beauty is about being comfortable in your own skin, then it starts with foundation, as far as I’m concerned – specifically, the next generation of second-skin camouflages that allow you to look like the best version of yourself. ‘It’s rare that I make a face flawless; it’s more about tweaking the skin,’ says Terry Barber, MAC’s director of make-up artistry.
Today, a natural effect that once relied on the expert application of layers of serum, primer, sheen, tint, base and concealer can be found in a single product. ‘There are flattering pigments that mould beautifully into the skin without you having to layer up product,’ says Barber, who recommends MAC Studio Waterweight Foundation. Star turns for me include Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk, La Mer Luminous Lifting Cushion Foundation and Hourglass Illusion Skin Tint, all of which, used sparingly, diminish any redness and add sheen to my skin without caking. For long days and nights, I also swear by Estée Lauder’s Double Wear, mixed with a dollop of Advanced Night Repair to create a dewy, second-skin effect.
The first task is, of course, to choose the perfect shade. ‘Only ever try colour directly on your face, rather than your neck or your hand,’ says Hannah Martin, the wedding make-up artist to the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Eugenie. ‘If it starts to disappear as soon as you buff it in, it’s a match.’
‘My advice is to try some swatches on your cheek, and wear them outside in the daylight before you part with your money – the grey British light is the ultimate stress test for any make-up,’ says Linda Cantello, Giorgio Armani’s international make-up artist. ‘And no one, just no one, suits pink-toned foundation.’
Texture is as important a consideration as colour. ‘Talc powders are your enemy over the age of 40,’ says Cantello; while Martin warns that ‘heavy foundations are incredibly ageing for mature skins, as are oil-free versions, which lack the moisture that an older skin is crying out for’. Instead, look for a waterbased product offering medium to light coverage, which gently evens out the complexion and can be a wonderful skin refresher at any age.
However, even the best foundation has its limitations. ‘Base won’t do all the work. Skincare is fundamental to how it sits and wears,’ says Martin, who likes to work in a gentle hydrating cream first to avoid any patchiness. (Her favourites include Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream and Drunk Elephant’s B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum.)
This was a lesson I learnt when the dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting put me on a strict prescription of resurfacing retinol and calming azelaic acid last year, and I discovered that my foundation sat far better on my newly smooth skin. I also took the advice of Jennifer Oliver, Bobbi Brown’s senior resident educator. ‘I never met a woman who needs full coverage everywhere,’ she says.
As a consequence, I now use high coverage where I need it, namely under the eyes and around the nose and chin, and I carry Armani’s Power Fabric Concealer wand around with me for any day-time touch-ups, working from the centre of my face outwards and applying product with my fingers, which warms and blends pigment with my own skin far better. ‘Women now understand that wearing a little coverage where necessary, and only where necessary, gives you a far better finish – which makes the Power Fabric concealer a great portable foundation,’ Cantello explains.
Hourglass’ fairy-light Veil Translucent Setting Powder sets my make-up beautifully without any telltale talc, or I opt for oil-control tissues on the T-zone. When it comes to blushers, Martin advises: ‘Always use powder on powder, or liquid on liquid.’
These days, you wouldn’t catch me leaving the house without foundation, but I can’t remember the last time someone complimented me on my make-up; instead, they just admire my fresh, glowing complexion. Which is just the way I want it.
‘Wearing a little coverage where necessary, and
only where necessary, gives you a better finish’