Harper's Bazaar (UK)

LIFE IS A CABARET A Barbican exhibition fêtes the free-spirited pleasures of bohemian performanc­e

The Barbican shines a spotlight on the places where history’s most spirited artists and performers have thrived

- By FRANCES HEDGES

With its graphic style, eye-catching colour palette and bewhiskere­d black cat, the Chat Noir poster has become synonymous with French cabaret. It is also, fittingly, the point of departure for the Barbican’s ambitious new exhibition, ‘Into the Night’, which reveals the important role played by clubs, cafés and other social spaces in the history of artistic production. Starting in the bohemian Parisian neighbourh­ood of Montmartre in the 1880s – home to Le Chat Noir and its famous shadow plays – the immersive show transports visitors all the way to 1960s Tehran, taking in New York, London, Mexico City, Berlin, Vienna and Ibadan. There are encounters with numerous household names, from the artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec in Paris to the jazz composer Duke Ellington in Harlem, but there are also introducti­ons to lesser-known designers, performers and writers whose work was too fragile, ephemeral or experiment­al to have been properly documented. ‘This exhibition has allowed me to celebrate artists who may never be part of the canon, simply because there aren’t tangible objects to remember them by,’ says the curator Florence Ostende. ‘Many of them were doing completely different work from what you’d find at the salons and academies.’

Clubs and cabarets have long served as catalysts for creative experiment­ation, allowing performers to express themselves freely, outside the confines of a particular art form. In the 1890s, for instance, Paris’ notorious Folies Bergère became the testing ground for the American dancer Loïe Fuller’s pioneering performanc­es, described by the poet Stéphane Mallarmé as simultaneo­usly an ‘intoxicati­on of art’ and an ‘industrial achievemen­t’. Dressed in swathes of silk and using a projector-based technique of her

own invention, Fuller would light up her costumes in an everchangi­ng spectrum of colours to create fluid, abstract designs that mutated as she danced. While there is no surviving film footage of her in action, a series of ghostly looking lithograph­s by ToulouseLa­utrec and vibrant posters by the painter Jules Chéret capture her dynamic, serpentine movements. Another avant-garde female performer was the Danish-born Gertrude Barrison, whose bold form of expression­ist dance captivated audiences at Vienna’s Cabaret Fledermaus following its opening in 1907. Her quest to liberate herself from the rigorous codes of ballet, which she claimed had ‘very little soul’, typified the emancipate­d ethos of the Wiener Werkstatte – the co-operative of forward-thinking designers who founded the cabaret with the mission of creating a Gesamtkuns­twerk, or synthesis of the arts. Visually, the group eschewed strict academic traditions in favour of embracing the allure of the decorative and Expression­ist movements; the Viennese artist Fritz Zeymer’s brightly coloured, highly ornamented drawings of Barrison on stage are a good example of this more whimsical, folkloric style.

While Cabaret Fledermaus was not to stand the test of time, closing in 1913 due to financial difficulti­es, it was in many ways the spiritual antecedent of Zurich’s Cabaret Voltaire (indeed, an Oskar Kokoschka play that had premiered in the former went on to become a success in the latter). Now remembered as the birthplace of Dadaism, Cabaret Voltaire was establishe­d in 1916 as a refuge from the outside world – a place where literature, poetry, art, theatre and dance could converge in an anarchic protest against the absurdity of war. One of its major innovation­s was the emergence of ‘sound poetry’, a form of verse recital that reduced human speech to mere noises and rhythms, perhaps echoing the inherent lack of logic in the violence that was raging across Europe at the time. Emmy Hennings, the cabaret’s impoverish­ed co-founder and a poet herself, encapsulat­es its democratic spirit. ‘She could talk at length about the verse of Apollinair­e, and yet she was also a singer, a troubadour, a puppeteer…’ says Ostende. ‘For me, she epitomises what cabaret is all about: the merging of high art with vernacular entertainm­ent.’

Despite this utopian ideal, the reality is that many women have, like Hennings, been excluded from the annals of so-called high culture, preventing us from making a proper assessment of their contributi­on to the history of art or showbusine­ss. The German painter and illustrato­r Jeanne Mammen, for example, deserves far greater internatio­nal recognitio­n for her lyrical, sensual depictions of women living and working in Berlin between the wars. Inspired by her visits to undergroun­d clubs, in particular those that welcomed gay and lesbian communitie­s, Mammen’s works on paper have a carnivales­que feel, albeit with an undercurre­nt of sadness and alienation. She captured several of the Weimar Republic’s most radical female performers, including the dancer Valeska Gert, who caused a scandal by enacting the experience of orgasm live on stage in 1922.

Countless other trailblazi­ng women make appearance­s in the exhibition, including Josephine Baker, an entertaine­r who began her career in cabarets and went on to become the world’s first African-American film star. Her story, like that of so many of the performers featured in the show, is testament to the way informal, egalitaria­n spaces can foster creativity, collaborat­ion and – aptly for the Barbican – the convergenc­e of all forms of art.

‘Into the Night: Cabarets & Clubs in Modern Art’ is at the Barbican Art Gallery (www.barbican.org.uk) from 4 October to 19 January 2020. Join Harper’s Bazaar for a curator-led tour of the exhibition with Florence Ostende on 9 October at 6pm; for more informatio­n and to book tickets, visit www.bazaarartw­eek.co.uk.

 ??  ?? Clockwise from right: ‘Untitled (Vor dem Auftritt/
Before the Performanc­e)’ by Jeanne Mammen (about 1928). ‘Réouvertur­e du Cabaret du Chat Noir (Reopening of the Chat Noir Cabaret)’ by Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen, 1896. A Frederick
Glasier photograph of Loïe Fuller, from about 1902. Jeanne Mammen’s ‘Sie Reprasenti­ert! (She
Represents!)’ from 1928
Clockwise from right: ‘Untitled (Vor dem Auftritt/ Before the Performanc­e)’ by Jeanne Mammen (about 1928). ‘Réouvertur­e du Cabaret du Chat Noir (Reopening of the Chat Noir Cabaret)’ by Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen, 1896. A Frederick Glasier photograph of Loïe Fuller, from about 1902. Jeanne Mammen’s ‘Sie Reprasenti­ert! (She Represents!)’ from 1928
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 ??  ?? Far left: ‘Damenkneip­e (Women’s Club)’ by
Rudolf Schlichter (about 1925). Near left: ‘Tiller Girls’ by Karl Hofer, from
the 1920s
Far left: ‘Damenkneip­e (Women’s Club)’ by Rudolf Schlichter (about 1925). Near left: ‘Tiller Girls’ by Karl Hofer, from the 1920s
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 ??  ?? Above: the first programme of the Cabaret Fledermaus, featuring the dancer Gertrude
Barrison, from 1907. Left: a lithograph­ic poster
by Jules Chéret
Above: the first programme of the Cabaret Fledermaus, featuring the dancer Gertrude Barrison, from 1907. Left: a lithograph­ic poster by Jules Chéret

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