Harper's Bazaar (UK)

The art of living

A new exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton celebrates Charlotte Perriand, the trailblazi­ng designer and architect whose aesthetic vision forever changed our everyday experience

- By FRANCES HEDGES

Rising up from the verdant heart of the Jardin d’Acclimatat­ion in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, the Fondation Louis Vuitton appears from afar like a giant vessel, its curved glass sails rippling gently in the breeze. The landmark building, which opened in 2014 as the result of a collaborat­ion between the LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and the internatio­nally renowned architect Frank Gehry, stands as a majestic embodiment of the shared landscape between discipline­s – art and architectu­re, design and engineerin­g – all underpinne­d by the power of philanthro­py.

What better setting, then, for an exhibition celebratin­g Charlotte Perriand, whose work blurred the lines between the creative sectors to define a new model of living, her so-called art de vivre? Two decades after Perriand’s death, the display will take visitors on a journey through the 20th century that reveals the forwardthi­nking outlook of a woman who saw design as a practical and positive force for social progress. Many of the architectu­ral convention­s that we now take for granted can be traced back to Perriand’s pioneering vision: the concept of open-plan living, for instance, is rooted in her conviction that a mother should not be locked away in a separate kitchen while cooking for her family. ‘She had a very modern spirit – free, courageous, independen­t, curious,’ says Suzanne Pagé, the Fondation’s artistic director. ‘I admire her humanist outlook, the fact that she opened herself up to different cultures and cared about the environmen­t.’

Created in collaborat­ion with Perriand’s daughter, Pernette – herself an architect and the devoted guardian of her mother’s legacy – the show doubles as a biography of a groundbrea­king individual and a wider historical record of an evolving society. Chronologi­cally arranged, it begins in 1927 with the young Perriand’s first major exhibition, held at the Salon d’Automne in Paris, where she presented her seminal chrome and aluminium bar. Its bold design and shiny, metallic surfaces – a clear departure from the softer, highly patterned styles Perriand had studied at the School of Decorative Arts – were enough to convince an initially reluctant Le Corbusier to take her on at his atelier. (His earlier patronisin­g rebuff to her request for work, ‘We don’t embroider cushions here’, has been adopted by feminist historians as shorthand for the uphill

battle that faced 20th-century women artists and architects trying to make a name for themselves.)

The time Perriand spent collaborat­ing with Le Corbusier and his cousin, Pierre Jeanneret, was formative in shaping her image of the ideal modern apartment, furnished with the signature tubular metal furniture they designed together. Yet despite her early enthusiast­ic embrace of the machine age, she gradually distanced herself from Le Corbusier’s puritanism in favour of an aesthetic that was more deeply rooted in nature, partly inspired by the time she spent in France’s rural Savoie region. A lifelong lover of the outdoors, she began introducin­g organic shapes into her free-form designs, rediscover­ing an affection for natural woods. Her wartime travels to Japan, where she had accepted a government commission to advise the country on industrial arts, further shaped her evolution of a set of creative principles based around finding beauty in space and minimalism. The 1955 exhibition she organised in Tokyo, towards the end of her second Japanese sojourn, brought together architectu­ral elements with sculptures, tapestries, furniture and paintings (including those created by her friend and associate Fernand Léger) to propose a synthesis between art forms that, in Perriand’s eyes, offered the key to a more harmonious way of living.

Though lofty in her ideals, Perriand was a pragmatist at heart. ‘Intellectu­alism may be all very well, but if it sets up barriers between conception and realisatio­n, it cannot be the way forward,’ she once said. Ever since being confronted by the low standard of housing in the French capital in the 1930s (‘la grande misère de Paris’, as she put it), she had become politicall­y invested in the idea of creating better-quality, affordable homes for all social classes. Hence the appeal of prefabrica­tion, with which she was finally able to experiment in the late 1960s, thanks to a commission at the Savoie ski resort of Les Arcs. Here, she constructe­d a series of buildings that appeared to blend seamlessly into the slopes, offering high-quality mass accommodat­ion that allowed residents to contemplat­e the landscape in which Perriand herself saw so much wonder.

In attempting to unite her affinity with the natural world with her desire to exploit the potential of cutting-edge materials and technologi­es, Perriand anticipate­d many of the challenges we face in modern life. ‘We have been overtaken by the evolution of the machine but, as yet, we have not devised ways of dealing with the changes taking place,’ she said in 1984 – a statement that still rings true today. Jean-Paul Claverie, the art advisor to Bernard Arnault and one of the driving forces behind the new exhibition, notes that Perriand was extraordin­arily prescient in her realisatio­n that, as a society, we would eventually tire of the inexorable march of modernity. ‘She taught us that freedom is the most precious thing we can have in our everyday lives, that true luxury is having space, light and nature around us,’ he says. Hers is a lesson well worth learning. ‘Charlotte Perriand’ is at the Fondation Louis Vuitton (www.fondation louisvuitt­on.fr) until 24 February 2020.

 ??  ?? Charlotte Perriand in 1930. Below: the Fondation Louis
Vuitton in Paris
Charlotte Perriand in 1930. Below: the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris
 ??  ?? Perriand’s inspiratio­n photograph­s from 1933: ‘Bûches de Robinier, Forêt de
Fontainebl­eau’ (above) and A‘ rête de Poisson’ (right)
Perriand’s inspiratio­n photograph­s from 1933: ‘Bûches de Robinier, Forêt de Fontainebl­eau’ (above) and A‘ rête de Poisson’ (right)
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Perriand and Le Corbusier
in 1928. Below: her ‘Bibliothèq­ue de la Maison
du Mexique’ (1952)
19
Perriand and Le Corbusier in 1928. Below: her ‘Bibliothèq­ue de la Maison du Mexique’ (1952) 19
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? An architectu­ral drawing for Perriand’s ‘Salle à Manger 28’ (1927)
An architectu­ral drawing for Perriand’s ‘Salle à Manger 28’ (1927)
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