THE ART OF CRAFT
Dolce & Gabbana pays tribute to Italian artisans with its fantastical, exquisitely detailed couture collection
Every Dolce & Gabbana collection is a love letter to Italy, one way or another. But this season’s Alta Moda – presented in Florence at the beginning of September as the country slowly emerged from its first lockdown – was more heartfelt than most. According to Carlo Capasa, the president of Italy’s Chamber of Fashion, almost 50 per cent of the Italian supply chain is at risk of failure – that’s 25,000 highly specialised small to medium-size businesses. So this wasn’t just another couture show, no matter how fabulous that may be, but rather an impassioned homage to the artisans without whom none of this would be possible. ‘Craftsmanship is not fashion,’ says Domenico Dolce. ‘It’s not cool, it’s not fast and it’s not disposable. But lockdown re-taught us how to think. We had so much time and we rediscovered its value.’
Every single one of the 89 looks in this exuberant, expansive, supremely joyful collection – titled ‘La Rinascita’, which translates as ‘the rebirth’ – was created by hand in a new Milanese atelier, established by the designers this spring to encourage a younger generation to go into the industry. There are 50 employees, all aged under 30. ‘It’s made with instinct and love,’ says Stefano Gabbana, ‘an investment in the value of time and quality. We have a very important message – we have to build.’
Even by the sky-high standards of Alta Moda, the show was spectacular: smouldering femme fatale glamour, heavy on veiled hats and ballgowns strewn with silk flowers. Inspiration came from the 1950s, which just happens to be when Florence staged Italy’s first ever fashion weeks – and look how that turned out! Indeed, if anyone can rescue their industry, it might just be Dolce and Gabbana, with their heart, soul and consummate artistry.