Harper's Bazaar (UK)

ETERNAL CLASSICS

Modern masterpiec­es that, decades after their original conception, constantly evolve and continue to fascinate

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What makes a piece of jewellery iconic? It goes without saying that it must be beautiful, groundbrea­king and inspiratio­nal. But above all else, an iconic piece is timeless, discovered afresh and given new relevance by each successive generation.

On these pages, our chosen models – young, diverse, cool – wear the new-season looks, accessoris­ed with a selection of Cartier’s most celebrated pieces: the Tank, Ballon Bleu, Panthère and Santos de Cartier watches, the Love and Juste un Clou bracelets, and the Trinity ring. The aesthetic is effortless and edgy; who could believe that several of the designs were first created more than a hundred years ago?

Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s director of image, style and heritage, says the secret of the pieces’ eternal appeal lies in their essential simplicity. ‘It’s easy for the eye to catch, but simplicity is probably the most difficult thing to achieve in a design,’ he says.

The Santos de Cartier watch is a case in point. The first modern wristwatch, it was created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pioneering Brazilian aviator, as a practical solution to the problem of having to look at a pocket watch mid-flight. Although it has been endlessly refashione­d in different materials and with a variety of straps, its geometric dial makes it instantly recognisab­le.

The Tank was introduced in 1919, and named after the armoured vehicles that rumbled across the battlefiel­ds of World War I, but the sleek linearity of its design has ensured a cult following ever since – its aficionado­s have included Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol, Jackie Kennedy and Diana, Princess of Wales, all style icons in their own right.

And the Trinity ring, first sold in 1924, appeals to modern lovers by marrying purity of line with emotional significan­ce. The three rings in different shades of gold symbolise friendship, love and fidelity, and are linked in such a way that they roll smoothly over each other, to give the wearer sensual as well as visual pleasure.

A different take on love was introduced by Aldo Cipullo in 1969. Adorned with screws and designed to be secured around the wrist with a screwdrive­r, the Love bracelet became a visual shorthand for lasting commitment, perfectly adapted to our Instagram age.

‘Love was a design that clearly expressed the idea of permanent attachment to someone else,’ says Rainero. ‘The fact that a piece of jewellery is adopted by new generation­s shows the relevance and the power of the design.’

Two years later, Cipullo created Juste un Clou, a nail reimagined as a precious jewel to wrap around a wrist. When Cartier reintroduc­ed the design in 2012, it took off, beloved for its wit (what practical use does a bent nail serve?) and its industrial elegance. Though Rainero fears that ‘it may be too soon to call it an icon’, Juste un Clou fulfils all the criteria. It is unmistakab­le, intimate, easy to wear, and appeals to people of all ages, races, cultures and genders. For as Rainero points out: ‘Everybody is equal in front of a beautiful object.’

‘It’s easy for the eye to catch, but simplicity is probably the most difficult thing to achieve in a design’

 ?? Photograph­s by TINA TYRELL
Styled by ELISSA SANTISI ??
Photograph­s by TINA TYRELL Styled by ELISSA SANTISI
 ??  ?? THIS PAGE: white, rose and yellow gold Trinity ring, £1,180; steel Ballon Bleu watch, £5,250; gold Love bracelet, £6,000, all Cartier.
Top, Proenza Schouler. OPPOSITE: gold Juste un Clou bracelets, £6,500 each, Cartier.
Dress, Gabriela Hearst
THIS PAGE: white, rose and yellow gold Trinity ring, £1,180; steel Ballon Bleu watch, £5,250; gold Love bracelet, £6,000, all Cartier. Top, Proenza Schouler. OPPOSITE: gold Juste un Clou bracelets, £6,500 each, Cartier. Dress, Gabriela Hearst
 ??  ?? Rose gold and leather Tank Louis Cartier watch, £11,800, Cartier. Coat, Louis Vuitton.
Shirt, Ami
Rose gold and leather Tank Louis Cartier watch, £11,800, Cartier. Coat, Louis Vuitton. Shirt, Ami
 ??  ?? THIS PAGE: gold Panthère watch, from a selection, Cartier. Jacket and skirt, both Chanel.
THIS PAGE: gold Panthère watch, from a selection, Cartier. Jacket and skirt, both Chanel.
 ??  ?? See Stockists for details. Creative direction by Jen Brill. Hair by Tina Outen, using Bumble and
Bumble. Make-up by Raisa Flowers. Manicure by Megumi Yamamoto for Susan Price NYC. Casting by David Chen Casting. Production by William Galusha. Retouching by Abby Harrison. Models: Mia Brown at Next; Ash Foo at NYMM; Ophélie
Guillerman­d at Elite;
Sasha Knysh at Muse; and
Amira Pinheiro at Elite
See Stockists for details. Creative direction by Jen Brill. Hair by Tina Outen, using Bumble and Bumble. Make-up by Raisa Flowers. Manicure by Megumi Yamamoto for Susan Price NYC. Casting by David Chen Casting. Production by William Galusha. Retouching by Abby Harrison. Models: Mia Brown at Next; Ash Foo at NYMM; Ophélie Guillerman­d at Elite; Sasha Knysh at Muse; and Amira Pinheiro at Elite

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