PASTORAL LANDSCAPE
Discover Menorca, the latest hotspot on the global art trail
Not a single cloud punctuated the bleached-out sky as I sat under the silvery branches of an olive-tree, listening to the sound of water lapping gently against the edge of the pool. Happiness like this doesn’t always come so easily, I thought, but here, it was constant. Long, hazy afternoons spent daydreaming, swimming and reading in this idyllic countryside setting made me feel as though I’d been transported into a David Hockney canvas.
Menorca, meaning ‘smaller island’, sits quietly in the Mediterranean Sea, never ostentatious, forever bewitching. This month, Hauser & Wirth will open a new 1,500-square-metre art centre on Isla del Rey, an islet in the harbour of the capital, Mahón. The eight galleries, shop and restaurant will be launched with an exhibition by Mark Bradford, and there will be a sculptural trail featuring the work of Louise Bourgeois, Eduardo Chillida, Franz West and others. If the success of the gallery’s Somerset outpost and its hotel the Fife Arms up in Scotland’s Braemar are anything to go by, this will be the summer’s hot ticket.
Luckily, there is already an excellent place to stay, thanks to the Experimental Group, which has picked this Balearic paradise for its first agrotourism hotel. After a 25-minute drive from the cobbled streets and pastel façades of Mahón, I arrived at Menorca Experimental, housed in a converted 19th-century finca that sits elegantly at the end of a dusty track. Surrounded by cornfields, hay bales and dry-stone walls, the retreat boasts 43 heavenly suites that have been curated by the French interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon. Her signature style runs throughout the rooms – clean lines and muted tones dotted with splashes of colour, including the handwoven blankets that cover each of the beds. There are also nine separate villas in close proximity to the main building, each with their own private plunge pools.
The main pool, bordered by pale-peach loungers and retro sun canopies, was almost empty for the duration of my stay. Blush-pink towels were perfectly stacked in wicker baskets and accommodating staff were always on hand to blend flavoursome cocktails. Exquisite lunches of grilled octopus, watermelon salad and ceviche were served nearby, under the shade of a pine-tree, with many of the vegetables and herbs picked directly from the hotel’s own organic garden. Menorca Experimental was so faultless, and so well put together, that at times I compared my stay to being on a film set, such was the charm of this hidden sanctuary.
On the days when I did manage to pull myself away from Experimental’s fantasy world, I’d head off for an adventure in search of wild beaches, each one offering a unique and new perspective of the island. While you can walk from the hotel to Cala Llucalari, a small, secluded cove, a car is necessary should you wish to see the most beautiful Menorcan beaches. My favourite, Cala Pilar on the north coast, was a 50-minute drive from the hotel and a further
30-minute trek through forests ringing with cicadas – a journey worth taking for the otherworldly landscape that awaits at the end. Unlike the inlets and coves of the south coast, many of which are comparable to the turquoise waters and white sands of the Caribbean, the distinctive, unspoilt Cala Pilar is made up of red sand and rock, which, juxtaposed with the azure shade of the sea, makes for an incredible scene. Even in the height of summer, this place is rarely crowded. I had bought huge peaches, jamón ibérico and local wine from the little town of Ferreries on the way, providing a pleasurable picnic. Should you be in luck like me, you may meet a Crusoe-esque figure who occasionally speeds into the bay by boat and sets up a makeshift bar from driftwood. Take cash, because you don’t want to miss out on his fresh mint mojitos.
Back inland, there are more than 1,500 historical sites dotted throughout the Menorcan countryside, which are a joy to explore. These include mystical sanctuaries and taulas – huge, table-like structures made of stone, built between 500BC and 300BC, that are reminiscent of Stonehenge. I found that the Talaiotic settlement of Torretrencada, a few miles from the main road towards the town of Ciutadella, was a good starting point. This site features towers, a large, complete taula, man-made caves, chambers and tombs; while the biggest collection of ancient ruins on the island, Torre d’en Galmés, is just an eightminute drive from Menorca Experimental. Hauser & Wirth clearly appreciates the mystery, history and rugged landscapes of the island too, and its exhibition space, gardens and restaurant will provide yet another good reason to head back to Menorca. I’m already dreaming of my return. Menorca Experimental (www.menorca experimental.com), from about £150 a room a night B&B. British Airways (www.britishairways.com) flies from London Heathrow to Menorca, from about £55 one way.