MYTHS AND MELANIN-RICH SKIN

Ahead of her debut book, renowned aesthetician and champion for change Dija Ayodele unpacks some of the popular misconceptions about black skin

Dija Ayodele is on a mission to educate the masses on the nuances of darker skin tones. The Londonbased aesthetician is on the expert board for the British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology and the advisory board for the British Beauty Council, and is a trustee of Beauty Backed, set up in response to the Covid-19 pandemic to provide support and guidance to professionals within the British beauty industry.

Following the success of Black Skin Directory, the online platform for the specific needs of skin of colour that she launched in 2018, Dija is publishing her debut book, Black Skin: The Definitive Skincare Guide. “It makes sure black women and men feel seen within the beauty and skincare space,” says the owner and founder of Westroom Aesthetics clinic. “For a long time, there’s been some overlooking happening, whether consciously or unconsciously.”

Here, Dija talks to hello! about clinic treatments and skincare specifics.

What are the most common myths about black skin, Dija?

“‘Black don’t crack!’ This gives people a false sense of security. I always say: ‘Black will crack

– if you’re slack.’ With serious things, like skin cancer, it makes people think they’re protected. Your melanin gives you a natural SPF of about 13. That’s not sufficient, especially when you’re dealing with pigmentation concerns.

“Yes, black people do get skin cancer less than white people, but because we get it less, we are less vigilant about checking our skin for signs. It leads to people saying: ‘Black people don’t need to wear sunscreen.’ Or: ‘Black skin is resilient,’ when actually the opposite is true. Due to the abundance of melanin, it’s actually quite a sensitive skin type because melanin reproduces quickly when it thinks the skin is under attack.”

Have people of colour been left out of the conversation around aesthetic treatments?

“Yes, up until a few years ago. That is one of the reasons why I launched Black Skin Directory, because I couldn’t see representation. There were stereotypical, broad-brush assumptions that black women weren’t interested in things like fillers or injectables and chemical peels or lasers. Also, practitioners themselves didn’t feel confident that they could treat black skin.

“The most common thing we talk to our clients about is lip fillers, because they don’t just make your lips look larger, they smooth out and hydrate lips, too.

“While we don’t do injectables [at our clinic] – that’s something we’ll probably look into – we make recommendations, because a lot of black women don’t know who to go to.”

What are the most common skin issues for darker skin tones?

“Most people are concerned with the effects of discolouration and hyperpigmentation. In our profession we try to educate that hyperpigmentation is a secondary result of a primary concern. Something else has triggered it – for example, acne, eczema or inflammation.

“Also, things like keloid scarring, which predominantly happens on darker skin tones, and a harmless condition called dermatosis papulosa nigra, which are really dark skin tags, which happen on black skin and people who have deeper melanin.”

What in-clinic treatments would you recommend to target hyperpigmentation?

“You will always treat the primary cause first. People come into the clinic and say: ‘I just want to clear up these dark marks on my face,’ and I say: ‘Okay, but that’s not what we’re going to do first.’ If it is acne, you would address that first and, as a result, the pigmentation concerns would naturally ease up.

“We look at your skincare and make sure it’s targeted to your skin. We also look at treatments, things like chemical peels, medi facials, extractions, LED light treatments.

“There’s a reason why these are classics, it’s because they work. Often, people are after the latest, hottest, best treatments.

“Actually, the old glycolic chemical peel – I know it’s not very sexy, but it works. High-frequency treatment is really good at controlling oil. Lasers are very good at dealing with pigmentation. But a lot of people, especially black women, are scared of lasers because they’ve heard all sorts of horror stories. I’m never going to negate those experiences, but lasers have, in the last ten years or so, really come on in leaps and bounds. I have laser treatment at least once a month myself, and I am quite dark.”

How often should you have laser treatment for hyperpigmentation?

“Every four to six weeks because there’s a compounding effect: each treatment builds on the last and six weeks is the maximum. When you have a treatment, the quality of your skin goes up and then starts to come down again – we want to catch it before it comes back down. If you leave it longer than six weeks, then you crash back down and we need to start again to take you back up. If you are consistent, you will notice the difference in your skin quality. That can take up to six months. Skin health is not a quick fix – it’s a lifelong thing.”

What’s the best way to treat dermatosis papulosa nigra?

“Unless it’s affecting the quality of your life, I advise that you leave them alone. If you have them on your eyelids, or on your lashline, I’d say yes, absolutely look to get them removed. You can have them removed with laser, excisions and you can use cryotherapy as well – it is down to practitioner preference.

“The reason why I say leave them alone is

‘There were broad-brush assumptions that black women weren’t interested in injectables and chemical peels or lasers’

because when you remove them they can sometimes cause hyperpigmentation or they can cause hypopigmentation, where the melanin in that area dies and leaves a light patch on the skin.

“Unless they’re causing significant disruption to your quality of life, leave them alone, that would be the best thing. Look at Beyoncé and Morgan Freeman – they have loads.”

Are there any in-clinic treatments that you would discourage black women from using?

“Certain types of lasers aren’t great for darker skin tones. If you’re having an ablative laser, a good practitioner would not do this anyway, it is too aggressive on the skin – and can lead to hyperpigmentation. Also microdermabrasion can be a little abrasive as well on a darker skin tone, which can lead to things like micro tears, which then cause pigmentation.

“Most of the time when it comes to the treatment, it’s the practitioner that’s the issue, not the treatment. Not all practitioners want to admit what they can and cannot do. So they may go ahead and do it anyway.

“A lot of the time, problems that arise are down to user error and not the product or treatment itself.”

And are there certain treatments to avoid if your skin is prone to keloid scarring?

“If you’re prone to keloid scarring, [avoid] any treatment that stimulates collagen, like collagen induction laser treatments, because keloids are a result of the overproduction of collagen. Also, treatments like microneedling and even some types of chemical peels – depending on their depth – and some laser treatments. Anything that has the potential to scar or injure the skin should be avoided.”

How can we best support in-clinic treatments at home?

“What is missing from a lot of black women’s skincare is a pigmentation-inhibiting product. It mainly comes in the form of a serum, with key ingredients like kojic acid, [alpha] artubin, niacinamide and vitamin C. Vitamin A, as well – retinoids are key in helping to not only stave off pigmentation, but to prevent hyperpigmentation in the first place. Finally, there’s the cheapest and easiest way to prevent hyperpigmentation – by always using your sunscreen.”