Tor House through time
Diana Sproat charts the story of a 19th-century villa that, over more than a century, has served as a country retreat, Balloon Command HQ and convalescent home
Diana Sproat charts the story of a 19th-century villa and its many different uses over the course of a century
In response to an archaeological planning condition, a new residential development by AMA (Tor) Ltd to the west of the Edinburgh has allowed buildings archaeologists at AOC Archaeology to record and explore Tor House, a mid-19th century Grade B Listed building and a fine example of a Neo-Jacobean former villa. The development lies in the Corstorphine area of the city, at No 30 Corstorphine Road, and is the next stage in the history of the site which began as a country retreat, then became an RAF command centre, an RAF and Salvation Army convalescent home, before most recently being used as a nursing home (Figs 1 + 2).
The origins
The listing description notes that the villa was ‘possibly' built in 1866 to designs by John Chesser (1819-92)
in a Neo-Jacobean style, an architect heavily influenced by William Burn for his U-plan mansion designs. However, a look at the historical mapping notes that a house was built on the exact same position by the time of the first edition Ordnance Survey map dated to 1853, which clearly shows the U-plan layout of a villa with a large service wing to the rear (Fig 3). Indeed, a range of villas in this position can be seen in the historic mapping going back to the 1830s. Chesser is not noted in the Dictionary of Scottish Architects as the architect behind the house, so more research into Chesser’s archives might shed light on whether he was indeed the designer; it is assumed that it has been attributed to him on stylistic grounds.
Curiously, the Tor Nursing Home (2005) noted that the house was built in 1850 (although no reference is given) as a country villa for new industrialist James Craig. Not to be confused with the pioneering New Town architect, he was in fact the proprietor of Craig & Rose (together with Hugh Rose), luxury paint manufacturers, who went on to win the contract to paint the Forth Road Bridge. Therefore, two theories as to the origins of the house can be made: a villa built in the 1830s, later owned (or possibly rebuilt) in 1850 for James Craig, or rebuilt in the 1860s designed by John Chesser.
Ainslie’s late 19th-century developments
What we do know is that by the 1890s, businessman John Ainslie was the owner of Tor House – or Torwood as it was now known – and he undertook massive upgrades to the house, all of which can be seen on the 1896 Ordnance Survey map. Was this the new property supposedly designed by Chesser in 1866? It certainly has the characteristic bay windows flanking the south-east elevation which are not noted on the earlier 1853 map, furthering the idea that this is Chesser’s building.
John Ainslie was determined to put his own stamp on the place. A lodge house was built at Corstorphine Road, a large stable block was constructed to the north-east and a large conservatory – almost as big as the house – abutted the east elevation (Fig 4). The architectural details can also tell us something about its residents. The identical carvings to either side of the entrance represent the caduceus, the traditional symbol of Hermes (Fig 5).The caduceus has often been wrongly ascribed to the medical profession and is actually more associated with many other things, including trade, which would be fitting considering both James Craig (if he was the original owner) and James Ainslie, a wholesaler of wine and spirits, were business entrepreneurs.
Another interesting carving is the bent arm on the south elevation bay window to the east side of the main entrance. ‘GUDE’ in the inscription below the carving – ‘GUDE IN NEED’ – is Scots for ’good’, so means ‘Good in Need’. This is
the Ainslie clan crest (Fig 6). But Ainslie didn’t stop at the exterior; he made extensive alterations to the interior main reception rooms, most of which survive today and are being retained as part of the new development. This includes the skirtings, doors and door fittings and decorative ceilings, as well as some internal fireplaces. The main entrance has striking timber panelling and carved timber detail, wide arched door openings in a symmetrical design and an ornate open-well stair with fireplace below (Fig 7).
One of the most significant furnishings is the wallpaper in the former dining room to the east side of the house (Fig 8). This is specifically mentioned in the Listing description as a ‘Tynecastle Canvas’ which is noted as ‘…deliberately historicist, imitates Spanish or Flemish early 18th-century examples’. The style of wallpaper was patented by Scott Morton
& Co of London and Edinburgh and designs similar to this one have been located in a 1902 trade catalogue produced by the company and noted as being ‘Spanish… Dining Room wallpaper.’ Given this date, and the date of when Scott Morton’s company was in operation, it is probable that the wallpaper (and perhaps therefore the rest of the furnishings in this room) date to the Ainslie renovations rather than being original to the house. Morton & Co are mentioned in the Dictionary of Scottish Architects, although (once again, as with Chesser) Tor House or Torwood is not noted as one of their primary commissions.
A stunning survival of Ainslie’s period of expansion to survive into the early 21st century was the interior of the stable block to the north-east. Rare is it that you find such intact furnishings outside of a National Trust property, complete with stone-flagged floor, timber trevisses and tether rings, glazed back walls and iron gates (Fig 9).
One interesting feature that has survived is the feeding tube in the west wall, which would have provided easy and regular access from the hay loft for food (likely mash) to be easily provided to the horses from the ground floor. The manufacturer’s embossment identifies that these were made by Musgrave & Co Ltd, which had factories in Belfast and London (Fig 10). Musgrave & Co were established in Belfast in the 1840s as a hardware merchants and, by the 1850s, they had moved into the construction of stoves, stable and cow-house fittings. As well as the feeding tube, it is therefore likely that they provided the rest of the fixtures and fittings of the rest of the stables at Tor as well.
The Second World War
By the middle of the 20th century, the house was owned by D.W. Paton, and he undertook very few changes to the house and grounds; the stables also eventually fell out of use, given the emergence of the motor car. However, the Second World War brought the house new purpose. Between 7 April 1940 and 19 July 1943, it was appropriated by the RAF and became the main headquarters for the No. 34 Balloon Command Group, serving under Air Marshal Sir Leslie Gossage. Balloon Command was vital for the war effort, and was formed in 1938 as the threat of war in Europe gathered pace. By 1939, 47 barrage balloon squadrons had been set up with balloon production in full swing, the balloons forming a vital defence against enemy aircraft. The HQ set up at Tor House was the only Scottish Balloon Command Group, the others located in London, Birmingham, Romsey and Sheffield. From here, other balloon centres (who managed balloon squadrons) were co-ordinated in Glasgow, Fife and as far away as Orkney. Unfortunately, no evidence of any activities by the Balloon Command survived within the building (given later refurbishments), although it is likely the more impressive reception rooms were used for the main order of business.
A new purpose in the late 20th century
The Balloon Command disbanded in 1945, once the threat of invasion had ceased, although this was by no means the end of the RAF’s association with Tor House. It was retained as an RAF convalescence home for a number of years (although it is unclear how long
for) before the Salvation Army took over the building, also as a convalescent home; it is more than possible that there was some overlap between the two. Changes to the house in this period included the division of the upper floors to accommodate individual rooms and bathrooms and, by the late 1960s, the conservatory to the east of the house was in the process of being demolished. In 1970, after its formation two years earlier, the Edinburgh and Lothian Baptist Housing Association purchased Tor House from the Salvation Army and it became a nursing home. Residents by this time were generally frailer and more elderly, hence essential modifications were needed to accommodate this. In 1993, there was a substantial upgrading of the internal arrangements of the house and premises and in 2005 a large new modern residential block was added to the house to the east side. Luckily, however, the late 19th-century fixtures and fittings from Ainslie’s expansions were left largely untouched, leaving us with valuable heritage.
To conclude, Tor House has seen many uses throughout its lifetime. The first 80–90 years as a country retreat for wealthy businessmen, then a brief but vitally important occupation by the RAF as a HQ for the only Scottish Balloon Command, before becoming both a convalescent and a nursing home. The new development will bring new life to the house, and the 2005 complex has recently been taken down to make way for more sensitive development to ensure the continued life and care of this important historic asset. Its historic associations are to be remembered in a plaque which is soon to be placed on the gate piers at Corstorphine Road.
Diana Sproat is a project manager at AOC Archaeology.