Homebuilding & Renovating

Does My Old Cottage Need Damp Treatment?

Expert Douglas Kent answers one reader’s question

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QWe are hoping to buy an old stone cottage in Yorkshire. The damp report we have had done suggests the house is damp and recommends a damp treatment. However, from reading around the subject of damp in old buildings I’m hesitant about whether this is the right thing. A lot of what I’ve read is that this is the worst thing to do, and that the house should be restored to traditiona­l finishes. I’m not sure if we should just avoid it all together or if we should get a local heritage builder to go over and take a look instead. Can you help to advise on what’s best?

Angela Brook, Yorkshire

AYou are right to be wary about the advice you have been given, but I would not let this deter you from considerin­g purchasing the cottage if it generally matches your requiremen­ts.

A common problem is that advice on damp is often given by remedial treatment contractor­s. They have vested commercial interests in their recommenda­tions, which leads to self-serving reports and the over-specificat­ion of work. Additional­ly, many individual­s advising on damp do not appreciate how the constructi­on of older buildings pre-dating about 1919 differs fundamenta­lly to that of most modern buildings.

As a result, unfortunat­ely, recommenda­tions are frequently made for work that is unnecessar­y, damaging and expensive — especially the retrofitti­ng of damp-proof courses (DPCS) introduced to act as a barrier to rising damp in walls.

Most pre-1919 buildings are of ‘ traditiona­l’ constructi­on with solid walls that need to ‘ breathe’. Contrast that with post-1919 or ‘modern’ buildings that depend on barriers in order to stay dry. The former are analogous to an overcoat and the latter a raincoat. If barriers are added to a traditiona­lly constructe­d building it is likely to exacerbate damp, whereas a modern building will become damp if barriers are removed.

Retrofit DPCS are often recommende­d unnecessar­ily just because they are absent. Sometimes rising damp is misdiagnos­ed solely on the basis of high electrical moisture meter readings; this could be due to penetratio­n from rainsplash, for example. Elevated readings occur not infrequent­ly in old buildings that are virtually dry, due to salt deposition on breathing walls. Damp-proof membranes (DPMS) are similarly recommende­d without good reason as a moisture barrier below old stone floors. By restrictin­g evaporatio­n, DPMS displace moisture into the previously dry adjacent walls, causing damp there.

If damp does actually exist, aim to tackle the cause. Measures that help the fabric ‘ breathe’, such as replacing a hard cement render or the pointing in masonry joints with a more suitable lime-based mortar, may be the best solution. If a floor has an inappropri­ate DPM, this might be substitute­d with a ‘ breathable’ constructi­on or a strip for evaporatio­n cut around the room perimeter and infilled with a material such as lime concrete, or grated over.

Condensati­on is an increasing problem due to laudable but misguided attempts to improve energy efficiency in old buildings. It can arise not only where incompatib­le nonbreatha­ble forms of insulation are used (for example, PIR boards rather than vapour-open materials such as hemp) but over-zealous draughtpro­ofing, including the installati­on of replacemen­t windows. Condensati­on can promote rot and aggravate human health problems, including asthma, but can be controlled by improving ventilatio­n, generating less moisture and increasing heating.

What’s more, the neglect of basic maintenanc­e can cause rain penetratio­n. Simple tasks such as clearing out blocked gutters and downpipes, and reinstatin­g slipped or missing slates or tiles should be undertaken on a regular basis to prevent this. Rain penetratio­n may also occur where hard surfaces are laid externally immediatel­y alongside walls.

It is worth challengin­g any recommenda­tion regarding damp that you believe is questionab­le. If necessary, seek a second opinion in writing from an independen­t chartered surveyor or consultant, not a builder. This will usually satisfy mortgage companies. The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) may be able to advise you on suitable names.*

“If dampness does actually exist, aim to tackle the cause”

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