old Meets New

Timber cladding isn’t just for period homes — the interior design of some of the most cutting-edge contemporary homes out there are centred around timber wall finishes. Natasha Brinsmead explains how to get the look and answers the most commonly asked que

For a long time, timber cladding was seen as a very traditional method of finishing off walls internally, from dark wood panelling in historic homes to the 1970s trend of cladding ceilings and walls in matching varnished boards.

More recently, painted tongue-and-groove cladding has seen something of a resurgence, adding a touch of country chic for those looking for a quick, cost-effective decorating solution.

This cladding comeback isn’t just focused on traditional and classic design though — contemporary homeowners have got in on the act too, realising that the scope of timbers, finishes and designs available provides the ideal solution for adding character and warmth to a modern home.

“Contemporary interior timber cladding can be used in many different ways on any wall internally,” says builder Andy Stevens, MD of Eclipse Property Solutions. “Cladding can be used to create a feature wall, bring an old wall to life, or if you’re ➤

clockwise from top left: Ash timber from Sutton Timber (suttontimber. co.uk) partially clads the ceiling and walls in this open plan space to zone the living area; While the overall feel of this room is classic, the white-washed cladding lends a modern feel; The open plan space within this contemporary home is made up of oak boards. In the hallway beyond, the oak has been treated with cider vinegar and iron filings to blacken the wood; This hallway features Sapele cladding — a reddish brown hardwood; OSB (oriented strand board) is an increasingly popular finish in contemporary homes as it’s cost-effective and visually striking; When using timber within wet areas, choose a water-resistant wood such as teak, or ensure it is treated with a suitable paint, sealant or linseed oil.

really bold you can clad the entire room. The great thing with timber is every piece is different so you will never get two pieces the same.”

Which Timber Should you Use?

Interior timber cladding will not be exposed to the elements in the same way as exterior timber cladding, and so there is more flexibility when it comes to your choice of timber. Your decision will more likely be dictated by your budget and the look you are aiming for.

You should also consider that while the trend for classic and more traditional properties is to paint cladding, meaning softwoods and MDF products are wholly suitable, contemporary timber cladding tends to embrace timber in its more natural state. For this reason, your choice of timber is of the utmost importance.

“All types of wood can be used, from softwood to hardwood, from old pallets to fine American white oak,” says Andy Stevens.

According to the experts at timber cladding specialists NORclad, the key is not so much the species of timber that you opt for, but its moisture content. “Within reason you can choose any wood you like the look of,” says Ed Sutch of NORclad. “It is the moisture content that is important. Internal moisture in the air can cause the timber to swell and crack so you want a stable timber — green oak, for example, would not be advised.

“We’d recommend using a species of timber that is easy to work with. You don’t need to worry as much about the durability of the timber as it won’t be put under the same environmental pressures as timber cladding used outside.”

Softwoods, such as pine, are a cheaper option and quite suitable for internal cladding. “Pine is a popular choice — as long as it is dry with a moisture content of around 10-12%,” says Ed Sutch. “It should also be finished with a suitable coating capable of absorbing and releasing a small amount of moisture.”

Softwoods also tend to be lightweight and easy to work with. That said, some softwoods can dent easily, so a good finish is essential.

Engineered boards are also an option. Engineered boards do tend to have greater stability than solid wood but can also cost more.

In terms of aesthetics, walnut, maple and cherry are all popular contemporary options, as are oak and teak (teak being a good option in bathrooms, where its moisture resistance comes in handy.)

OSB (oriented strand board) and plywood are now also being used as cladding solutions. In the past, these products have been used primarily as part of the structure, but more and more people are recognising that these products can actually look rather beautiful left exposed.

One of the main concerns with using such materials as a final finish is that they can feel rough or splintery, even shedding flakes of wood over time. It is important to ensure they are well sanded. Also, a finish will be required to avoid ‘flaking’. While some choose to paint OSB for very striking results, others opt for a clear polyurethane finish.

Plywood is made from thin layers of solid wood, glued together and is more expensive than OSB. High-quality face finishes (think birch-faced ply) are particularly popular with designers.

Choosing a Finish and Profile

Most internal cladding comes in the form of tongue-and-groove boards that can be nailed and glued together or as straight-edged boards. This is much the same as wooden flooring — in fact the majority of wooden flooring suppliers state that their boards can also be used on walls.

In the case of tongue-and-groove boards, the outer edges are often chamfered, forming a V-shaped groove where the boards meet. In the case of contemporary homes, a sleeker look is often preferable, so ensure the boards you choose are straightedged instead if this is the look you are after. It is still possible to use tongue-and-groove board, but

choose one with a ‘shadow gap’ or ‘channel’ profile. These boards have a flat face and a clean, squareedged cut out and are usually suitable for secret nailing (more on which later).

Split-face timber cladding and randomly formed designs add a 3D element. Supplied in packs of varying sizes, textures and even timber types, these can be more time-consuming to fit than regular cladding, but are still often supplied with tongueand-groove edges.

Other options include panels of wood cladding. The cladding is supplied in sheets designed to fit up to one another for a seamless finish.

How is it Fixed?

In renovation projects, your walls may require attention before cladding is fixed, although cladding is actually a good way to deal with less-than-perfect surfaces. So long as the surface is not completely falling away, there should be no problem.

In some cases, cladding can be fixed directly to the wall. This is a good option if you are working within a small space, or if you have timber stud walls, where cladding can be nailed directly to studwork — just be sure you mark where the studs are before you begin.

In most cases, however, cladding is fixed on to 50mm x 25mm softwood battens that have been nailed or screwed to the existing solid wall. In the case of cladding fixed to the inside of an external wall, using a vapour barrier, placed behind the battens, can prevent condensation or rot affecting the new timber. Battening out the wall can also provide a good opportunity to add in extra insulation in the case of renovation projects.

Battens must run at right angles to the cladding and be spaced around 400-600mm apart, de- pending on the size of the wall. The first and last battens should be at either end of the wall and further battens will be required around doors, windows and under any joints at the ends of boards.

If you plan on hanging anything heavy off the cladding, think about adding in extra support in the form of additional battens.

In a contemporary setting, skirting boards are often not required. If fitting your cladding vertically, finishing the bottom edge of the cladding off with a square-edged strip of matching wood is a neat solution.

Another consideration is how to finish the corners and edges; the solution may depend on the cladding used. At the end of a run of boards/panels or at corners, beading or thin strips of matching timber are typically used to finish off.

In the case of external corners where both walls are clad, plane off the tongue for a tidy overlap, and cover it with a strip of timber or beading. If only one wall is covered, finish with a strip of wood pinned to the ends of the battens.

If you are painting your cladding, then any nail or screw holes can be filled, sanded and painted over. However, in the case of wood that is to be stained, oiled or left in its raw state, another solution is required: secret nailing.

Secret nailing involves nailing boards together through the ‘tongue’ section of the wood, angling the nail inwards. These nail heads then get covered by the groove in the subsequent board.

Finally, in order to reduce the risk of your cladding splitting, warping or cracking, have it delivered at least two weeks before you plan on fitting it. Then store it (laid flat) in the room it will be used in to acclimatise.

How Much Does Cladding Cost?

Softwood tongue-and-groove cladding is usually sold in packs and is designed to be fitted on a DIY basis, costing from £7-£8/m2.

However, bear in mind that a softwood such as pine will require the application of a knotting solution and either primer and paint, or a sealant or stain, which ultimately adds to its cost.

Hardwoods such as oak and walnut cost more, but usually come finished.

Does it Require Maintenance?

Remember wood is a natural product that needs some maintenance. There are various oils, waxes and stains you can use — use offcuts to test finishes. Speak to your supplier to see how often they recommend you treat or paint the wood. russwood’s ‘17th-century oak flooring’, (russwood. co.uk), is used as wall cladding.

damage, it’s the same colour inside and out, which makes scratches less visible. It’s also more flexible than metals, which can be a positive when there’s a high volume of rain and, unlike metal, won’t rust.

The drawbacks are the aesthetics and that it can be susceptible to the effects of UV, which can cause the plastic to become brittle and fail. Those who favour them often cite that the cost savings mean that they can be replaced when this failure occurs and still be more cost-effective than some metal guttering systems.

Metal options include galvanised steel, aluminium (and cast aluminium) and cast iron. Those in favour of metal gutters state that most metal guttering can be recycled at the end of its life, and that it won’t expand and contract under heat like plastic. Steel and aluminium pipes and gutters have an estimated life span of around 15-25 years, while cast iron, if properly maintained, can survive for decades.

“It may look like an expensive initial investment, but it offers an unrivalled life of over 100 years with proper maintenance,” says Fiona Nevada of Rainclear Systems, “which actually makes it great value for money.”

Galvanised steel and aluminium are both lightweight metals and can be easily installed by a competent DIYer (most likely two), while cast iron and aluminium are slightly more involved (and heavy) jobs, particularly the former.