Removing a chimney breast
This month, our experts tackle your questions on flat roofs, removing a chimney breast and how to plan planting for a new garden.
Q Can I use polished concrete with underfloor heating? HANNAH AND DANIEL, LANCASHIRE
Polished concrete flooring is achieved using poured concrete with chemical densifiers added; these densifiers act to fill the holes and pores in the concrete. Once cured, the concrete is polished (as the name suggests,) until the required level of sheen and smoothness is achieved.
The good news is, concrete is a superb heat conductor, so concrete floors work really well with underfloor heating. The thermal mass of your concrete will retain heat and ensure your room stays warm for longer after your heating is switched off than would be the case with a radiator system. They are easy to pour over the pipework and they absorb and hold the heat produced well. Seek the advice of your installer before switching your underfloor heating on though — too soon and the floor could crack. NATASHA BRINSMEAD, ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Q What do I need to know about installing a hot water tap in an existing kitchen? HANNAH AND DANIEL, LANCASHIRE
Most sinks are suitable for a hot water tap. The space you’ll need will vary with the capacity of the model you select. Most will be between two and five litres.there are generally two different system types: open vented and pressurised.with an INTU open vented system there is no need to vent the tank to the outside; it will work off a standard plug and fit your existing pipe work, making it a safe, easy and quick-to-install option. A standard 220/240v grounded 13 Amp switched electrical outlet will be required under the sink for the appliance’s electrical power. Installation will need a professional if your hot water tap is going on your countertop rather than over your sink. DAVID CULSHAW, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR AT INTU
Q We’re considering a flat roof for our rear extension but are a little wary of them and have visions of puddles of water sitting on the top. How is this prevented? SABINE, BROCKLEHURST
One of the most important design considerations you can be faced with is the need to give a roof a suitable slope or ‘fall’ to disperse rainwater. Get this wrong and water will accumulate in puddles, causing premature deterioration. But how steep does a nominally ‘flat’ roof actually need to be? The Building Regulations encourage a minimum fall of 1:40 (40 units in length for every 1 unit drop in height) although the minimum fall required according to BS 6229, a British Standard for ‘flat roofs with continuously supported flexible waterproof coverings’ is a shallower 1:80. Standard practice involves placing wedge-shaped tapered strips of timber known as ‘firrings’ along the top of horizontal joists. For consistency, it’s best to get your timber supplier to pre-cut these (they’ll charge a small fee). Of course there’s nothing to stop you placing the firrings at right angles running across the tops of the joists, but this can potentially lead to localised weakness where they’re a bit on the thin side.
There are other ways you can achieve a suitable slope. Probably the simplest method is to position the joists at the required slope in the first instance. A downside of this is that it means your ceiling will slope, which arguably can make an extension feel a bit like a separate ‘garden room’ that’s been tacked onto the house. If you’ve got a fairly simple rectangular extension, another option is to use ready-made tapered insulation boards. These have a built-in slope designed to be laid on top of the joists.
Whichever method you choose, once the skeleton is in place the next stage is to install the deck on top.
IAN ROCK, CHARTERED SURVEYOR
Q When’s the best time of year to lime render my cottage? ANN, WILTSHIRE
Lime plaster should not normally be applied externally when there is any risk of frost within the three months following application, or it may fail.this means your house should be plastered by midseptember, or left protected over the winter till the following May. BARBARA JONES,
DIRECTOR OF STRAW WORKS
Q As the summer months are upon us I’d like to plan the landscaping for our self-build project but I’m not sure where to start or how to budget for it. Any tips? AISHA, STOKE
Planting gardens always seems expensive; I often think this is because many people make costly mistakes. Well-planted gardens should be low-maintenance in terms of weeding and provide some form of interest year round, both for you and as a habitat for small birds and insects, which are vital to us in countless ways.
If you are unsure, the most cost-effective route is to have a good designer or gardener come round for a consultation. Most designers won’t expect you to want the whole garden designing. You may wish to design in stages, and if you are clear it’s a consultation on specifics they will give you a charge for that element. A consultation day can cost from £300 to £1,000, depending on the designer.
Armed with useful information, either from a consultation or research, you can start to plan your border by imagining the new shapes.this can be done, depending on the season, by letting the grass grow outside the places where new beds will be or marking out the space with a garden hose, spray or string.
Once you understand the space you’re working with, spend some time at a good garden centre or nursery to choose new plants. Mixed planting could cost up to £100/m2. If budget is a real concern, befriend a gardening neighbour or join a gardening club and get involved with seed growing, cuttings and potted up ‘extras’. This is a great way to gain knowledge and stock up the garden inexpensively.
Once you’ve budgeted for the essentials (access, planting and structural items such as drainage), you can consider luxury items such as log stores, raised vegetable beds, and barbecue areas.
PAUL HERVEY-BROOKES, AWARD-WINNING LANDSCAPE DESIGNER