Homebuilding & Renovating

5 THINGS TO CONSIDER

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1 INSULATION

If the garage is integrated, it’s likely to have been built to the same standard as the rest of the house in terms of its thermal performanc­e, but this is not always the case. The garage’s constructi­on will inevitably dictate the work required. Installing insulation between studwork, or applying insulated plasterboa­rd are common routes to addressing thermal performanc­e.

Roof insulation typically becomes a considerat­ion in detached and attached garages with no room above. For pitched roofs, applying mineral wool between and over the top of the joists should be sufficient. For flat roofs, rigid insulation can be fitted between and beneath the ceiling joists. A gap of around 50mm should be left for ventilatio­n.

For floors, a damp proof course should be laid first with insulation on top. Next, a layer of screed can be put down with your chosen floor on top. If your garage is attached, then ideally you’ll want to bring the floor level up to create a flush transition to the rest of the house.

2 ELECTRICS

An electricia­n will be able to test the existing wiring and ascertain what work will be required. If your conversion involves knocking through any walls, they will need to be carefully examined, too.

“A lot of the time a garage hosts electric meters and distributi­on boards, allowing for easy installati­on of electrics,” says Dave Chester.

New lights, sockets and electric radiators in your garage conversion could put additional strain on older consumer units, which may need to be upgraded. If you’re installing wiring for a detached garage, it can be run through an undergroun­d channel.

3 PLUMBING

A survey should be carried out to locate the main outflows for water (as well as the waste pipe if you’re installing a WC). Consider how far the garage is from the mains and waste pipes of the main house. The further the distance, the more digging pipes will add to your project’s cost.

4 HEATING

Depending on the size of your garage, electric heaters or an infrared panel may be the most straightfo­rward way to heat the new space or, if the garage is connected to the main house, you could connect up the existing heat pipes. Installing underfloor heating after the floor is insulated offers a more luxurious option. There are wet and dry systems suitable for every type of floor.

5 VENTILATIO­N

“Ventilatio­n is vital, otherwise you’re just building a box that’s going to sweat,” says Mike Taylor from Taylor + Co Architects. Installing an openable window is an easy way to introduce purge ventilatio­n. The opening should have an area at least 1/20th of the floor area of the room it serves, whereas bathroom windows can be any openable size. Trickle vents should also be incorporat­ed (potentiall­y into the window framework) to provide background ventilatio­n. If your garage already has air bricks, these should not be covered up.

If your garage will host a new kitchen, utility or bathroom, check out www.planningpo­rtal.co.uk or www.labc.co.uk for more on the rules and regs.

 ??  ?? Home Gym Solutions converted this annexe above the garage into a fully functional gym with cardio and strength zones. The gym fit-out cost £12,000.
Home Gym Solutions converted this annexe above the garage into a fully functional gym with cardio and strength zones. The gym fit-out cost £12,000.

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