JERSEY ROYALS

The arrival of new potatoes in Britain’s back gardens, allotments and farmers’ markets is a welcome sign that spring is well and truly here. One of the few gardening chores that I used to love was digging up my mother’s first crop of new potatoes – finding those golden nuggets like buried treasure in the earth brought me such joy. All new potatoes are a delight but the Jersey Royal is the real jewel in Britain’s potato crop.

Jersey has been growing new potatoes for more than 140 years and during peak season in May, up to 1,500 tonnes of Royals can be exported daily. As well as being unique to Jersey, they’re safeguarded under the EU protection of origin, much like Prosciutto di Parma, Champagne and Melton Mowbray pork pies. A whopping 99 per cent is exported to the UK, while Jersey inhabitants enjoy the rest.

Their unparalleled flavour is thanks to the rich, fertile soil and gentle climate of the island. Potatoes from the earlier crop tend to be smaller and more tender, while the later harvest produces larger, more flavoursome spuds. Buy them unwashed, as they travel better when their delicate skins are protected by a layer of earth, and use within two or three days to enjoy them at their best. And don’t peel as the goodness and flavour lies just beneath the skin – a gentle wash is all they need.

Purists will tell you that the best way to enjoy Jerseys is boiled then doused in an obscene amount of butter and some chopped herbs. However, I recommend my mum’s hot potato salad. Add lemon juice, wholegrain mustard and salt and pepper to equal parts mayonnaise and full-fat yogurt. Stir through just-boiled potatoes with sliced spring onions and torn basil. New potatoes work well with asparagus, wild garlic and crab, too. Try them boiled or roasted with a crispy fried egg, mayonnaise with a little tarragon chopped in and just-cooked asparagus tips.

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