TIME TO ESCAPE Istanbul, Venice and New York – David Wickers picks three cities fit for a special occasion
Continuing this month’s party mood, David Wickers picks three cities for a special occasion
If you’ve a birthday or anniversary coming up, why not toast the occasion in style with a city break? While somewhere familiar like Paris might spring to mind, here are three beautiful alternatives to inspire you to set your sights a little further...
ISTANBUL
With its skyline shaped by the voluptuous domes and pencil-sharp minarets of 500 mosques, Istanbul brings exoticism to its visitors. For four centuries, it was the high command of the Ottomans who ruled an empire as big as the USA. I love the fact that Istanbul is part Europe, part Asia, two continents divided by a 20-mile tail of slate grey sea, the Bosphorus, which is populated by a mesmerising choreography of ferries slaloming between fishing boats and massive cargo ships. WHAT TO SEE
In the 16th century, Sultan Mehmet built Topkapi (1), a palace half the size of Monaco. Its most famous wing, the harem, is an intriguing warren of rooms, which include the dorms of the 300 concubines, the circumcision chamber and the flatlet belonging to the chief eunuch. As well as the famous mosques, visit the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground Roman reservoir supported by 300 marble columns.
WHAT TO DO
Enjoy a body treatment in the Cagaloglu baths (cagalogluhamami.com.tr) which are 300-years-old. ‘If you have not been here before’ reads the sign,‘you cannot be clean’. The soapy sponge-down, Brillo-rough scrub and bone-crunching massage takes place in a marble chamber where sunlight pierces the damp haze through stars and crescents in the cupola, and drips of water resonate in synch with the masseurs’ smacks against flesh. The Grand Bazaar is the world’s first shopping mall, with almost 4,000 lock-ups. The labyrinth of dome-capped alleys still hosts several historic traders selling traditional products (2).
WHERE TO EAT
Pandeli’s (pandeli.com.tr), the 100-year-old blue-tiled restaurant, sits right above the spice market. Sea bass baked in paper is the house speciality. For a seafood treat, take a taxi to Marina Balik (marinabalik. net), located on an old pier in Kuruçesme overlooking the Bosphorus.
WHERE TO STAY
The Four Seasons (fourseasons.com) is a 19th-century palace overlooking the water, with a delightful outdoor pool. Or opt for a simple room in Ayasofya (ayasofya.com), converted from a row of three 19th-century wooden houses.
VENICE
There’s nowhere more romantic than Venice, a city built for indulgence and celebration. ‘It’s like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go,’ declared Truman Capote. If you’ve never been, you’re in for one of the most amazing treats of the travel world. And it should all start with a speedboat ride from Marco Polo airport, whooshing across the lagoon, past the islands of Murano and the city’s cemetery of San Michele. The boatman will then throttle down, turn a corner and gently ease you straight into the heart of medieval Europe. Once ashore, let the magic rather than the map take over.
WHAT TO SEE
Head first to Piazza San Marco, dubbed by Napoleon as ‘the finest drawing room in Europe’. Then order a coffee in Florian (3) or Quadri, accompanied by palm court-ish musicians. A cappuccino will cost you a Doge’s ransom but there’s no better place to savour the mood. Then go to the pictures. The Accademia
(gallerieaccademia.it) houses the most famous collection but I would steer you to the Scuola di San Rocco
(scuolagrandesanrocco.org), home to outstanding Tintorettos, or the Scuola di
San Georgio degli Schiavoni (scuoladalmetavenetia.com) to marvel at remarkable paintings by Carpaccio, whose colours continue to radiate after more than 500 years.
WHAT TO DO
Hop on a gondola (4) or Vaporetto number 1, the slow boat that stops at all the landing stages along the Grand Canal, the most glamorous high street in the world lined with medieval palaces.
WHERE TO EAT
Alle Testiere (5) (osterialletestiere.it) is a romantic cameo of a restaurant where the speciality is whatever is fresh at the fish market. I also really like Alla Madonna (ristoranteallamadonna.com), which is tucked out of the way, down a narrow alley.
WHERE TO STAY
Three-star La Calcina (lacalcina.com), Ruskin’s old haunt, overlooks the Giudecca canal with outside dining. Or push the boat out, literally, at Hotel Cipriani (belmond.com), an oasis of luxury accessible by private launch from St Mark’s Square, with the biggest pool in town.
NEW YORK
Harlem is happening, Brooklyn is on the map, Times Square has been de-sleazed, the blood-stained porters in the Meatpacking District have handed over the sidewalks to the fashionistas and there’s an irresistible spirit of celebration in the air. Whether it’s your first time or your 50th, New York never ceases to amaze. That tired old saying ‘been there, done that’ simply could not apply. Like shifting sandbanks, its neighbourhoods are always changing, run-down blocks renovated, cool bars flourish, restaurants seem to pop up every few minutes and chic stores open in previous no-go zones.
The city now has one of the lowest crime rates in the USA.
WHAT TO SEE
The choice of sights, galleries and museums is enormous, so cherry pick. Here’s a good example: there are some 40 million exhibits in the American Museum of Natural History (amnh.org) but I would go there just to see the dioramas; landscapes and animals are so convincing, you can almost smell the African bush (6). My absolute don’t-miss is the 9/11 Memorial Museum (911memorial.org).
WHAT TO DO
Forget about excursion boats. Just hop aboard the free Staten Island Ferry (siferry.com) for views of the Statue of Liberty and the downtown skyline of Manhattan. Another free treat is to walk the High Line, the 1930s elevated train track that’s been transformed into a ribbon of park.
WHERE TO SHOP
Macy’s (7), Barneys and Bloomingdale’s are among the most famous but I think UK department stores are just as good. Unless your trip coincides with the sales, I would focus on individual shops in neighbourhoods such as SoHo and the West Village.
WHERE TO EAT
The Ear (earinn.com) on the western fringe of SoHo is a convivial bar-cum-bistro with just a few paper-covered tables at the back. Nothing fancy but a personal favourite. If you are into seafood, then Grand Central Station Oyster Bar (oysterbarny.com) is a must for its lobster from Maine, fish from the Grand Banks, crab from Chesapeake Bay and oysters from all over. The location, in the magnificently restored Beaux Art beauty, is a sightseeing experience in itself.
WHERE TO STAY
The Pierre (pierreny.com) is an old-money, Upper East Side, grand hotel bordering Central Park – even the lifts have gloved attendants. Save money by staying in happening Williamsburg, just one stop on the 'L' subway from Manhattan. The Hoxton (hoxton.com) has small rooms but generous public spaces (8).
‘Whether it's your first time or your 50th visit to the city, New York never
ceases to amaze’