TIME TO FEAST

Giovanna Ryan cooks with pumpkins

In the past I’ve resisted writing about pumpkin in October, dismissing it as too obvious. But the truth is that pumpkins, and the whole squash family, are so much more than just a vessel for a tealight on the doorstep.

An estimated 10 million pumpkins are grown in the UK, of which 95 per cent are used to make Halloween lanterns, and I would wager that very few of these make it onto our plates once they’ve been hollowed out. This is partly because these paler, bulbous varieties are grown for size rather than flavour, so you’d want to use them in a well-spiced curry or a soup. The best eating pumpkin, for me, is the Delica. With a sweet, nutty flavour, it has a much lower water content than other varieties, and will hold its shape in a stew or tagine.

Preparing a pumpkin can be a challenge. Start by slicing off the bottom to create a flat base so it won’t skate around the board. Then use your largest, sharpest knife to cut it in half and scoop out the interior, saving the seeds for roasting.

Pumpkin is one of the few vegetables that is truly content in both sweet and savoury dishes. Match it with honey, nuts and sweet spices, or contrast its sweetness with yogurt, fresh herbs or citrus flavours.

True to form, my two favourite pumpkin dishes are Italian. Pumpkin ravioli with sage, butter and parmesan, finished with crushed amaretti biscuits, is one of my go-to entertaining starters, while pumpkin risotto is also a complete delight at this time of year.

I find that most baked and sweet things can be vastly improved with the addition of puréed pumpkin. Pancakes, ice cream, waffles and even doughnuts work well, especially if cinnamon, vanilla or ground ginger are also involved.

Like cauliflower and aubergine, pumpkin is a vegetarian hero. Delicious in its own right and a vehicle for stronger flavours, it’s a perfect meat alternative in tagines, curries or ramen. In the October chapter of Miranda York’s The Food

Almanac, there’s a recipe for pumpkin and walnut biryani by Meera Sodha. It’s entirely vegan and completely wonderful. For Giovanna’s supper clubs and butchery company, see cookandfeast.co.uk