Cosmetic chemistry
The science behind the products you put on your skin
Discover the science behind the products we put on our skin
It’s well documented that the people of ancient Egypt were pioneers in cosmetics some 5,000 years ago. Cleopatra is often depicted sporting the original smokey eye, using a blue-and-green powder made of malachite or ground-up lazuli stone. However, the purpose of this glamour was much more divine than in modern-day applications: the ancient Egyptians believed that it offered protection from illnesses by appeasing the gods Horus and Ra.
In the time since the pharaohs ruled, people all over the world have undergone countless cosmetic makeovers. From the painted faces of the ancient Greeks, the dyed hair during the Byzantine period or battling blemishes in the
Middle Ages, cosmetics have always played a role in society.
However, only in the last couple of centuries have cosmetics become a commercial product. Previously cosmetics remained firmly a homemade affair, often including ingredients toxic to the wearer. For example, the ancient Romans applied toxic mercury ore as rouge, while Queen Elizabeth I famously wore ceruse, a toxic white lead foundation.
It wasn’t until 1920 that the term ‘makeup’ was even used. The word was coined by cosmetic mogul Max Factor when the brand launched a cosmetic range called Society Makeup. Since then makeup has continued to diversify, and its use has grow exponentially. In the modern era, the cosmetics industry is one of the largest in the world, and by 2025 the global cosmetics market is projected to be valued at around $758.4 billion (£548 billion).
As makeup has evolved, so too have its ingredients. As a result, countless new products are being created, and some old ones are being
“Only in the last couple of centuries have cosmetics become a commercial product”
reinvented. One of the most long-standing cosmetic products is lipstick. Over the years lipstick has undergone arguably the most transformation in terms of its range of colours, styles and applications.
Some brands have even incorporated some science ‘magic’ into their products. Several years ago, clear lipsticks appeared on shop shelves. When applied, these lipsticks magically changed colour on the lips thanks to a clever ingredient called Red 27. This colour-changing chemical works in the same way as litmus paper. Red 27 reacts with the moisture and ph of your lips and will change shades depending on the composition of your skin.