CREATING COSMETICS

The ingredients that make up makeup

Adhesives

Lash extensions continue to grow in popularity. There are three types on the market: synthetic lashes are made of plastic fibres, such as polybutylene terephthalate. Some extensions are made from human hair, and there are some products still made from mink fur. For shop-bought lashes, tacky glue is applied along the eyelid and easily removed with water and soap. However, professionals use a glue adhesive also found in superglue, called cyanoacrylate, for long-lasting extensions. Although these might contain similar ingredients, never use superglue or other glues on your own false eyelashes at home.

Preservatives

Cosmetics come with a sell-by date. To prevent the growth of any fungi and bacteria, antimicrobial ingredients are used. These include alcohols and acids, including parabens. These are chemical compounds extracted from para-hydroxybenzoic acid found in fruits and vegetables. In recent years these compounds have been studied for their potential role in causing some cancers. Although studies haven’t shown a direct link, experts are concerned about a link between the cumulative use of parabenbased products and developing certain cancers.

Thickeners

To control the viscosity of some cosmetic products, thickeners are added to the list of ingredients. However, there isn’t one universal thickener on the market – brands have several options to choose from. Natural thickeners such as gelatine, xanthan gum or plant-derived cellulose can create very thick products, but are easily diluted by water or alcohol to become thinner. Mineral thickeners, such as clay-rich bentonite, can absorb water and oils to create a thicker consistency. It’s also used in cat litter for the same reason. Similarly, long-molecular polymer synthetic thickeners, such as acrylic acids, can be used to create thicker gels.

“Emollients can be added to a product to lock in moisture”

Pigments

Many ingredients can give a cosmetic product its colour. Pigments can typically be split into either organic or inorganic compounds. Organic pigments can come from botanicals, mineral oxides such as iron or zinc or from something called a lake pigment. These are made using a natural dye from a plant precipitated with a metal compound such as aluminium hydroxide. This process makes them more water resistant and long-lasting. Inorganic pigments, on the other hand, are synthetically produced and lack the carbon molecules found in the organic alternatives. Their molecules are often larger than organic pigments for better coverage on the skin, and some can even offer UV protection.

Adding shine

Products such as highlighters use a mineral called mica, naturally found in rocks such as schist and granite. What’s special about these minerals is their layered crystalline structure, giving products a shiny lustre. A mica such as muscovite, the most common form, can be easily ground up and used in the production of cosmetic highlighters. This is coated with transparent titanium dioxide to increase its ability to refract light.

Emollients

To prevent makeup from sucking water from the skin, a variety of compounds called emollients can be added to a product to lock in moisture. These typically consist of waxes and oils, including coconut oil, beeswax and glycerine. These oils create a protective layer of wax over the skin to prevent initial moisture loss. Should moisture have already been drawn out from skin cells, they will dry out and shrivel. To plump them back up, emollients fill the thirsty cells with fat lipids, making them appear smoother.