Tr avel report MADEIRA
levada - a centuries-old water canal carved out of the mountainside – which helps feed this rich landscape, moving water from the wet regions in the north of the mountains to the sun-parched ground in the south.
It’s thrilling and stunning in equal measures, and an exciting alternative to the slow hike up the hill which most visitors will opt for.
Daredevils can also opt for any number of outdoor experiences, from hiking, canyoning, trailrunning through the mountains, scuba diving and rock climbing.
But whether you’re looking for a Bear Grylls adventure, or a chilled Ray Mears amble, you’ll need somewhere to rest your head.
The most famous, and by far the most commanding of these is Belmond Reid’s Palace, and it’s where I spend my first night.
Before the arrival of the airport, Belmond Reid’s Palace - which was frequented by the likes of Winston Churchill and dramatist George Bernard Shaw - was accessible only by sea, hence the view of Belmond Reid from the road gives little away of the stunning rosy-pink facade on the waterfront, which would have greeted guests as they sailed toward it.
Classic and elegant, this five-star hotel is a step back in time, and it might take guests a little while to adjust to its luxurious and timehonoured approach to looking after guests. Dining and bar areas all have their unique dress codes, the hotel boasts its own Michelinstarred restaurant, and a Portuguese pianist will serenades late-night cocktails.
Contemporary and cutting edge this is not. But immerse yourself in the Belmond Reid bubble and you’re in for a treat - for a little while, you can be the prince or princess of this pink palace.
At the opposite end of the spectrum - but no less comfortable - is the Castanheiro.
Located in the heart of Funchal, this boutique hotel is converted from five stunning buildings dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, all topped off with a stunning roof terrace.
From this rooftop, guests can recline on the sun-loungers, surrounded by the scorched terracotta tiles with views of the sea and the mountains, before taking a dip in the pool and hot tub.
The four-star hotel is a short walk from the town centre, where there’s a huge range of food, drink and tourist attractions to explore.
Stroll through the markets and spot local delicacies such as black scabbard fish, or visit a Blandy’s Wine Lodge, where visitors can learn the art of Madeira making, where they have one of the oldest and rarest collections in the country.
It might have a reputation as being a sleepy island, but there’s so much more to Madiera.
As our Jeep retreats down the wooded road back towards the salty sea air on the coast, we leave behind mountains, black sand lagoons, and cascading waterfalls, all unexplored. There’s plenty more to see here, for those who want an adventure.