A PASSION FOR FASHION
Rare collection offers an insight into a century of styles
THE problem with modern homes is that storage space is minimal – second (and sometimes first) bedrooms have barely enough room for a wardrobe. This was not an issue if you lived in the grandeur of somewhere like Hinwick House.
The three-storey, 50-room Queen Anne, Grade I-listed country seat of the eminent Orlebar family, set in 38 acres of magnificent North Bedfordshire parkland, was built in 1710 and is said to have been modelled on the first Buckinghamshire Palace.
With so much space, to say nothing of the Victorian north wing added in 1866 and numerous outbuildings and stables, nothing was ever thrown away.
When in 1992 the Orlebar family decided the property should be sold, the lady of the house was keen to keep together a well-preserved collection of period clothing that had been stored there since the mid 19th century.
Enter Anthony Godwin, principal clarinettist with the Bournemouth Symphony Orchestra, and his wife Patricia. In 1978, they had formed the Palm Court Theatre Orchestra and its members, some of them professional, were soon attracting acclaim with their performances of nostalgic Edwardian salon music. They once played for the Queen.
It was the perfect solution: Mrs Godwin purchased the collection of clothing and for some years before they passed out of her ownership, the costumes for both male and female players were worn by orchestra members for numerous recitals and concerts.
Mrs Godwin also gave talks in which she featured the clothes along with cuttings from newspapers that also came from Hinwick House.
Now, however, the collection is to be dispersed. Surrey auctioneers Ewbank’s will offer the 80 lots in a sale of vintage fashion, textiles and sewing accessories on Thursday,
April 11. It is expected to raise in the region of £10,000.
Spanning the years 1840 to 1940, the rare Victorian, Edwardian and early 20th century couture represents a fascinating insight into a century of fashion.
“The Orlebar consignment is a rare and outstanding collection of high-quality garments telling the story of the transition from the formal wear of the Victorian era to that of modern fashion,” said Ewbank’s specialist Andrea Machen.
One highlight is a ladies’ Victorian cycling dress, which was previously loaned to Wimborne Museum during the London Olympics. It has been valued at between £100 and £150.
The outfit reveals how an ingenious system of loops and strings enabled women to weave a delicate path between propriety and mobility.
From the mid 19th century, when fashions started to move away from tightly buttoned and corseted clothes under the influence of the Pre Raphaelites, William Morris and the Rational dress movement, the Aesthetic dress became popular with well-to-do families with artistic leanings.
One dress illustrates this perfectly, loose cut in green silk, a natural colour favoured by the movement, it has hand-embroidered borders following an Arts & Crafts tradition. It is also estimated at £100-150.
A number of dresses from the
1920s and 30s show the glamour of the country house set, including knee-high loose dresses, perfect for dancing the Charleston, and several opulent opera coats.
One of the most important pieces in the collection is a figure-revealing dress by the French designer Jeanne Margaine-lacroix that shocked Belle Epoque Paris.
Her creation of the “robe-sylphide” dress caused a sensation in 1908 when three beautiful young models appeared at the May Prix du Prince de Galles race meeting at Longchamp wearing the clinging garments without corsets, petticoats or chemises.
A crowd gathered quickly around the women, one of them being offered a contract at the Moulin Rouge immediately, while the Press excitedly dubbed them “Les Nouvelles Merveilleuse”.
International publicity followed for the daring new “sans corset” dress.
Lacroix was famous and her couture became highly sought after by the more progressive ladies throughout Europe. The dress is estimated at £150-250.
In contrast is a dashing 1920s set of motoring attire, complete with tweed plus fours, cotton coat, leatherrimmed goggles, leather helmet and gauntlet gloves, with a silk scarf and cravat to finish off the look. The collection also includes shoes from the period and iconic cloche hats.
During the First World War, the Orlebar family offered part of Hinwick House to be used as an auxiliary hospital for wounded soldiers, and a small group of military uniform items are included in the consignment dating from that period, as are a number of pieces of clothing dating to the Second World War, which each bear the Utility mark.
Utility Clothing was introduced towards the end of 1941 as part of the war effort. Raw materials were in short supply and manufacturers were required to produce a limited range of austerity garments and shoes in longer runs and subject to strict pricing regulations. Consignments to the sale from other owners include Hermès scarves, handbags and vintage cases to Biba designs and embroidered samplers.