Reach for the stars
MARK SMITH IS IN AWE OF THE SKY AT NIGHT ON A DAZZLING TRIP TO DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY
VISITORS have been flocking to Dumfries and Galloway for decades to pay tribute to poet Robert Burns. Now they are homing in on this area to see beyond the bard of Scotland as it makes a name for itself as a world-beating dark skies location.
I made the trip to Dumfries as a guest at the much-loved Cairndale Hotel to take part in one of its new Dark Skies two-day packages. This area gained international profile in 2009 when its Galloway Forest Park was awarded UNESCO Dark Skies classification – the first spot outside North America to be granted such status.
However, setting off from the landmark Dumfries hotel with Dark Skies ranger Matthew Mcfadzean, my fellow stargazers and I were travelling more in hope than expectation.
Matthew was taking us to nearby Caerlaverock Castle, where a remote location and truly stunning setting are the perfect place for a bit of night-sky action.
But looming clouds raised fears that there was more chance of seeing a downpour than the Milky Way.
As Matthew walked us away from the minibus towards the eerie ruined castle, a few holes in the clouds raised our hopes.
Matthew certainly knows his stuff and, as he guided us to the castle in pitch-black conditions, he regaled us with some truly mind-blowing astronomical facts and figures.
But this is no dry scientific trip – and there were plenty of tall tales, ancient Greek legends about naughty nymphs and their lusty suitors written in the stars, and even a bit of musing about our place in the universe.
Suitably hushed at learning exactly how tiny we are in the vastness of space, things then took a turn for the spectacular.
As we looked up, the dark clouds cleared away as if by magic, opening up a wide open, star-studded night sky like nothing you’ll ever see in towns and cities.
Matthew insisted he had organised this dramatic event with the big guy upstairs in advance of our visit – and who knows, it might be true.
With super-strong telescopes set up to allow you an even closer look at the heavens, this was a night to remember.
We jumped on the minibus back to the hotel after a few hours of gazing to enjoy a hearty three-course dinner at the Cairndale.
Its Dark Skies package includes two nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast – and you’ll be in food heaven as well as staring up at it.
The first night there saw us tuck in to the hotel’s Scottish-themed set dinner – tasty smoked salmon starter, followed by a haggis-stuffed chicken and potato rosti, finishing with a nicely tart cheesecake.
The second night offered another three-course set dinner served in one of the hotel’s rather groovy clear plastic domes dotted around the grounds outside.
Again, ranger Matthew was on hand to join us and chat to us about his great passion for all things celestial.
To help us get in the mood there was also a chance to try out the local Sky Garden gin, which combined with the outdoor setting makes for an atmospheric and magical experience. And don’t worry, there are heaters!
The second day of the package allows you plenty of free time to spend in and around Dumfries during the day. A suggested road trip could take you on a scenic tour of the area up to Drumlanrig Castle and down through the Galloway Hills before returning to the hotel.
My wife Morag and I thought we would take in the delights of Dumfries and there is plenty to see and do in this buzzing town.
After a well-cooked Scottish breakfast we decided to explore the town’s Robert Burns heritage by taking in a trail dedicated to the bard.
Burns spent the last years of his life in the town with Bonnie Jean Armour and is buried in its historic St Michael’s churchyard.
Starting from the Dumfries tourist information centre near the famous Whitesands area, you can visit 20 points of interest in a short walk – including his old house, his burial
The dark clouds cleared... opening up a star-studded night sky like nothing you’ll ever see in cities Mark Smith
place and the Robert Burns Centre on the other side of the River Nith.
Feeling a bit peckish after our morning stroll through history, we stopped off for lunch in the town centre’s Stove Cafe. This modern, smart venue offers fantastic food as well as a range of cultural and artistic events – and it’s well worth dropping in to see what is on.
It’s also worth visiting another of the town’s literary gems – Moat Brae House. This is where JM Barrie was inspired to write Peter Pan, having spent part of his youth living in the house and rampaging around the gardens with his local band of pals.
It has been transformed into a centre celebrating children’s literature and is a must-see for kids – big and small.
No trip to Dumfries would be complete without sampling some of the town’s hostelries – among them the Globe, frequented by Burns himself and now a high-end gastropub.
We decided a pub crawl in his memory was the best way to pay tribute to Rabbie and stumbled on The Cavens Arms, surely one of the greatest pubs in Scotland with beer, whisky and great craic on tap.
No trip to the recently refurbished Cairndale Hotel would be complete without also trying out its Barracuda Club, with a well-appointed gym, indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna.
Whatever you fancy doing in this great location, ask Cairndale Hotel director Matthew Wallace Jr for his guidance. The hotel has been in his family for generations and there’s nothing that he doesn’t know about this sometimes overlooked little corner of Scotland.
And talking about stars, it’s not only the twinkly-in-thesky variety they serve up at this venue as Kiki Dee will be dropping in for an intimate concert here on November 18 this year. Unlike Kiki, there were no broken hearts on this enchanting, star-struck break. Only full bellies and expanded minds.