Clear thinking on adult acne: how to have brighter, better skin
From finding the right treatment to eating the right food and simplifying your daily routine, we asked the experts how best to tackle a break-out. By Joanna Whitehead
Fashion faux pas, embarrassing parents and acne are hallmarks of the teenage experience that most of us look forward to leaving behind. But the assumption that acne will disappear as we age is not always borne out in reality. One study found that between 12 and 22 per cent of women aged
26 to 44 experience acne, while Yale Medicine found that 25 per cent of women and 12 per cent of men in their forties report having the condition.
When the condition is incorrectly dismissed as a purely cosmetic issue, the impact on an individual can be significant, causing low self-esteem, social isolation and depression. And while there has been a rise in “acne advocates” on social media who have attempted to change attitudes and remove the stigma attached to adult acne, many people with the condition describe it as an affliction that impacts on all areas of their life. “No one likes having acne,” states Dr Ross Perry, GP and medical director of Cosmedics Skin Clinics. “Depending on the severity, it can affect your everyday life and impact your self-confidence.” So why do adults get acne? “It is one of the most common skin conditions in the UK – however, severity and longevity varies,” says Dr Adam Friedman, consultant dermatologist at Stratum
Dermatology Clinics.
“Acne is a condition characterised by blackheads, whiteheads and cysts and caused by a combination of overactive grease glands, hormones, pore blockage and bacterial overgrowth, which all commonly start during puberty. Unfortunately, avoidance of acne can be tricky, as it is often down to genetics or hormones. “During menopause, for example, as oestrogen levels decrease, testosterone stimulates the sebaceous glands to secrete thicker sebum, giving the appearance of oily skin, and the tendency toward adult acne.
“Acne usually gets better over a year or two, so the first line of treatment is to simply suppress the inflammation until the acne disappears naturally.
“Treatment for acne depends on its severity and the more severe the disease, the stronger a medication is required.”
So how can you best treat adult acne?
ASSESS YOUR
SKIN PRODUCTS Over-the-counter products promising to improve skin and reduce acne can have differing effects on different individuals, so it is worth experimenting to see what works for you.
“If you suffer from acne, an anti-bacterial facial wash that contains salicylic acid is recommended,” says Dr Friedman. “Avoid irritants such as soap, wipes and fragrances. Wash with creams instead, such as aqueous cream or Dermol. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are both good ingredients to look for. However, prescription antibiotic gels and creams tend to work best. “If you have mild acne, you can opt for a gel that contains about 5 per cent benzoyl peroxide and an antibacterial facial wash that contains salicylic acid. You could apply an anti-acne lotion to any spots before they come up.”
CHANGE YOUR SKINCARE REGIME
“Changing your skincare regime might be additionally beneficial, such as using gentle soap-free cleansers suitable for acneprone skins,” says Dr Friedman. “Cosmetics suitable for acne-prone skin are usually marked as ‘acnefriendly’, ‘non-comedogenic’ or ‘oil-free’, and these should all be considered, especially if you are prone to those annoying break-outs,” he says.
STOP TOUCHING YOUR FACE
“Try not to keep touching your face, especially your chin, which naturally produces more oil and sebum – and definitely don’t squeeze,” says Dr Perry. “If skin is red and angry, try dabbing on some tea tree oil or witch hazel to soothe the skin.”
KEEP IT SIMPLE
“Keep your routine simple,” suggests Dr Brendan Khong, dermatologist at skincare clinic Dr David Jack. “This is not the time to try multiple new products and experiment. The goal is to reduce irritation.”
REVIEW
YOUR DIET
What you eat and drink can have a big impact on your skin.
Drinking plenty of water, reducing your alcohol intake and stopping smoking can all result in healthier-looking skin, says Dr Sophie Momen, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. “Adopt a diet rich in Omega3 fatty acids (oily fish), good fats, zinc, vitamins C and E (avocados, walnuts, sunflower seeds, broccoli) and high levels of beta-carotene (sweet potatoes and red peppers),” she advises, alongside drinking plenty of water.”
KEEP IT CLEAN
“Wash your pillowcases and bed sheets often, wash make-up brushes and never share them,” warns Dr Khong. “Reducing bacteria in these areas can help keep your skin clear.”
GET A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP
“The most elaborate skincare night-time regimes will have limited ability to work their magic if an individual is sleep-deprived,” says Dr Sasha Dhoat, consultant dermatologist at Stratum Dermatology Clinics. “Poor sleep can lead to an increase in the stress hormone, cortisol, which can worsen conditions such as eczema, acne and rosacea.”
EXERCISE – AND
BREATHE…
“Exercise gives you that instant wonder glow, improves blood circulation and the delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin, promoting regeneration of new skin cells,” says Dr Dhoat. Traditional Chinese medicine practitioner and celebrity facialist Ada Ooi takes a holistic approach to skincare. She says: “Factors such as hormonal fluctuations, dietary choices, environmental influences and stress can all impact the body’s ability to maintain equilibrium, leading to skin issues. Taking time out of your day to practise mindfulness, yoga or simple breathing exercises can all reduce stress levels.”
CONSULT YOUR GP
“If you have moderate to severe acne and over-the-counter products aren’t working, seek advice from a GP,” says Dr Perry. Dr Khong agrees. “We will be able to assess the skin to provide the best way forward. There are prescription-only medications, such as antibiotics and topical treatments. If necessary, blood tests can be taken to assess any biochemical imbalances,” he says.
BE GENTLE
“Treat your skin gently,” says Dr Khong. “Physical scrubs can irritate the skin, spread bacteria and push infection deeper.
And if the beads are not round, they can cause micro tears.”
Dr Dhoat agrees, warning that people of colour should take extra care. “Irritation from overexuberant methods on skin of colour can leave post-inflammatory dark, uneven patches.”
GIVE IT TIME
“Your skin needs time to heal,” says Dr Khong. “Be consistent with your skincare routine and you should start to see results in a few weeks.”