Guide to iOS 11’s set­tings

Cliff Joseph’s guide will help you per­son­al­ize your iOS de­vice

iPad&iPhone user - - CONTENTS -

As we saw last month, iOS al­lows you to ad­just ev­ery as­pect of your iPhone or iPad. In the sec­ond and fi­nal part of our guide to iOS, we look at iCloud, apps and down­loads.

iCloud set­tings The iCloud Drive App, and how to hide it

iCloud Drive is a bit like Finder on the Mac, as it al­lows you to view all the files and fold­ers that you have

stored within your free 5GB of iCloud stor­age. That’s great if – like me – you con­stantly need to trans­fer work files be­tween mul­ti­ple de­vices run­ning dif­fer­ent apps when you’re on the move. How­ever, the iCloud Drive app might be a lit­tle con­fus­ing for peo­ple who aren’t fa­mil­iar with cloud ser­vices such as iCloud or Drop­box. And if you ever let your kids or other peo­ple use your iPad or iPhone there’s also the pos­si­bil­ity that they could use this app to view per­sonal files, or even delete some im­por­tant work files with­out your per­mis­sion.

To pre­vent this, iOS al­lows you to hide the iCloud Drive app so that it’s no longer vis­i­ble on your Home screen. Your iCloud ac­count still works, and all your files and emails stored in iCloud can still be opened up within apps like Mail or Pages, but hid­ing the iCloud Drive app en­sures that no files can be viewed, moved or deleted by mis­take.

So, if we re­turn to the main iCloud Set­tings panel once more, and tap on iCloud Drive, we’ll see the ‘Show On Home Screen’ switch, which al­lows us to show or hide the app as re­quired. iCloud and third-party com­pa­nies And, at long last, there are some third-party apps from com­pa­nies other than Ap­ple that are start­ing to use iCloud Drive as well. The lat­est ver­sion of Ex­cel for iOS can now use your iCloud Drive to store files – as can the iOS ver­sions of Word and Pow­erPoint too.

Each app that uses iCloud gets its own con­trol switch that lets you turn the iCloud stor­age op­tion on or off, so you can turn it on just for the main apps that you work with, and turn all the oth­ers off in or­der to avoid

us­ing up ex­tra space un­nec­es­sar­ily. Some files – such as Pow­erPoint or Key­note pre­sen­ta­tions – can be pretty large, so there’s also a switch that al­lows you to re­strict file up­loads to Wi-Fi con­nec­tions, so that you don’t bust your mo­bile broad­band data cap. iCloud set­tings on the iPhone The iCloud panel is a bit of a big­gie. How­ever, the essen­tials here are the abil­ity to turn iCloud sync­ing on or off for a va­ri­ety of dif­fer­ent apps.

You can use iCloud to share pho­tos, emails and con­tacts, as well as files cre­ated in apps such as Pages, Num­bers and Key­note. One re­ally use­ful iCloud op­tion is Find My iPhone, which can be used to lo­cate any de­vice that’s logged into your iCloud ac­count. I mis­lay my phone around the house all the time, so I of­ten use this fea­ture to find it again – but, more im­por­tantly, Find

My iPhone works with iPads and Macs too, and can be used to lo­cate your de­vices if they get lost or stolen.

Af­ter iCloud and iTunes you’ll find set­tings for a va­ri­ety of in­di­vid­ual apps. These in­clude the stan­dard apps, such as Mail and Con­tacts that are built into your iPhone or iPad, but there are also set­tings for other apps that you buy and in­stall your­self, so these will ob­vi­ously vary from per­son to per­son. Cloud op­tions for iPhones and iPads It may sit quite a long way down the list of op­tions in the iOS Set­tings panel, but iCloud is now one of the key tech­nolo­gies at the heart of both iOS and macOS. When it was first launched back in 2011, iCloud was re­ally just de­signed for sync­ing emails and pho­tos be­tween your iPhone and your Mac. How­ever, it has now ma­tured into a so­phis­ti­cated cloud stor­age sys­tem that can share all sorts of per­sonal in­for­ma­tion across mul­ti­ple de­vices.

Fam­ily Shar­ing al­lows one per­son – known as the ‘or­ga­nizer’ – to cre­ate a spe­cial ‘fam­ily group’, and to then in­vite up to five fam­ily mem­bers to join that group. Fam­ily Shar­ing works on iOS de­vices, Macs, and even PCs run­ning Win­dows (though you’ll need to down­load the iCloud for Win­dows soft­ware from the Ap­ple web­site).

The only re­stric­tion here is that the or­ga­nizer has to be an adult, with a credit card linked to their Ap­ple ID ac­count. The or­ga­nizer agrees to pay for any pur­chases made by mem­bers of the fam­ily group, and any pur­chases made by any mem­ber of the group are au­to­mat­i­cally made avail­able to every­one else in the group. But don’t worry – there are op­tions within Fam­ily

Shar­ing that can pre­vent your fam­ily go­ing crazy with your credit card. iCloud stor­age: free 5GB When you cre­ate an Ap­ple ID ac­count you au­to­mat­i­cally get 5GB of free stor­age on iCloud, which you can use to store your pho­tos, emails, and your de­vice back­ups.

That’s not a huge amount, but the mu­sic, videos and apps that you buy from iTunes or the App Store don’t count to­wards the 5GB to­tal, so most peo­ple can still get by with that ba­sic amount of stor­age. I use my iPhone and iPad all the time, and I’ve still got about 4GB spare.

If you want to know how much stor­age you have left you can see it dis­played near the top of the main iCloud set­tings panel.

But, as iCloud adds more new fea­tures, such as iCloud Drive and iCloud Photo Li­brary, it gets eas­ier and eas­ier to fill up that 5GB of stor­age. For­tu­nately, you’ve got a cou­ple of op­tions for man­ag­ing your iCloud stor­age, which you can see just by tap­ping on Stor­age in the set­tings panel. Get more space in iCloud The Stor­age Panel shows you how much stor­age you’ve got left (above). If you take a lot of pho­tos, or use iCloud Drive to store a lot of work files then you might need to pay for some ex­tra stor­age. How­ever, there’s an­other op­tion that you can try first. Just tap on Man­age Stor­age and you’ll see a de­tailed list of ev­ery­thing you have stored in iCloud. Your Photo Li­brary comes first, fol­lowed by back­ups from all your iOS de­vices, and then

a de­tailed list of all the files cre­ated in other apps such as Key­note and Num­bers.

I re­cently moved a load of hol­i­day pho­tos back onto my of­fice Mac, so the Photo Li­brary on my iPhone cur­rently only takes up about 190MB. My iPad backup is big­ger, though, tak­ing up 200MB, and there’s a num­ber of files that I cre­ated in Key­note on my Mac that take up an­other 190MB on their own. If you’re close to your 5GB limit you can see which apps and files are tak­ing up the most space and you might be able to grab back quite a bit of space sim­ply by delet­ing a few old files that you don’t need any more. Re­move data from iCloud to make more space You ac­tu­ally have re­ally fine con­trol over the data that you store in iCloud.

Of course, you can delete in­di­vid­ual pho­tos and videos from Pho­tos when­ever you want, and it doesn’t hurt to clear out your email In­box now and then ei­ther.

You can also delve into iCloud and delete files from other apps too. Just tap on the name of any app in the Man­age Stor­age panel, and you will see a list of ev­ery sin­gle file cre­ated by that app, along with the size of each file.

I wrote an ar­ti­cle on Key­note for iPad&iPhoneUser re­cently, and I’ve still got a num­ber of large Key­note pre­sen­ta­tions files that are tak­ing up space in my iCloud stor­age. But if I tap the Edit but­ton at the top of the screen I can delete in­di­vid­ual files that I no longer need, or just use the Delete All com­mand to delete ev­ery file cre­ated by Key­note.

You can also con­trol which files will be in­cluded in fu­ture back­ups. If I tap my iPhone in the Back­ups list I can see a list of ev­ery app that I have on my iPhone, and how much data each app will store when I back up my iPhone to iCloud. You can click the green but­ton to turn off back­ups for in­di­vid­ual apps, and as you do this you’ll see an up­dated count of how large the next backup will be. Re­mov­ing back­ups to make more space Af­ter your Photo Li­brary, one of the big­gest items that most peo­ple up­load to iCloud is the daily backup of their iPhone or iPad data. By de­fault, iOS au­to­mat­i­cally backs up your iPhone or iPad to iCloud once a day (as long as the de­vice is turned on, con­nected to power, and con­nected to a Wi-Fi net­work). But if those back­ups take up too much space on iCloud you can sim­ply turn off the backup func­tion al­to­gether.

Tap on Delete Backup and you’ll see an­other lit­tle win­dow pop up that asks if you want to ‘Turn off &

Delete’. If you go ahead and do this you will delete any back­ups from that de­vice that are al­ready stored in iCloud, and also turn off any fu­ture back­ups as well. You can still back up your iPhone or iPad by con­nect­ing it to your Mac or PC and us­ing the au­to­matic backup op­tion in iTunes, but those back­ups are stored on your com­puter’s hard disk so they don’t take up any of your iCloud stor­age. Up­grad­ing iCloud stor­age If these space-sav­ing tricks still don’t stop you from hit­ting that 5GB limit then you might just have to bite the bul­let and pay for some more stor­age. Ap­ple’s pric­ing for iCloud stor­age used to be ridicu­lously ex­pen­sive – which is why so many peo­ple still use ri­vals such as Drop­box or Mi­crosoft’s OneDrive. How­ever, Ap­ple cut the prices of iCloud stor­age quite dras­ti­cally last year, fol­low­ing the in­tro­duc­tion of iCloud Drive.

Go back to the main Stor­age panel and tap Buy More Stor­age, and you’ll see a price list for the dif­fer­ent iCloud stor­age op­tions. You can up­grade to 50GB – and that’s 50GB to­tal, not 50GB on top of the orig­i­nal 5GB – for just 79p a month. There are also plans for 200GB at £2.49 per month, and 1TB for £6.99.

Ri­vals such as Drop­box, Google Drive and Mi­crosoft’s OneDrive are still cheaper – with Mi­crosoft and Google both of­fer­ing a re­ally handy 15GB of stor­age for free – but the sim­plic­ity of iCloud and its abil­ity to seam­lessly share all your im­por­tant files and data across mul­ti­ple de­vices is re­ally use­ful if you own a lot of Ap­ple prod­ucts. And, of course, you can use more than one cloud stor­age ser­vice if you want.

I mainly use iCloud for sync­ing pho­tos and emails across my de­vices, but I also have a free Drop­box ac­count that I use as an emer­gency backup for im­por­tant work files on my of­fice Mac. iCloud and Apps Keep­ing an eye on your iCloud Stor­age is even more im­por­tant when us­ing new fea­tures such as iCloud Drive and iCloud Photo Li­brary.

How­ever, the iCloud Set­tings panel also in­cludes a num­ber of op­tions that de­ter­mine how iCloud works with in­di­vid­ual apps on your iPhone or iPad. If you want to share your Mail mes­sages, Con­tacts info and Cal­en­dar events across all your de­vices then you need to make sure that you turn on iCloud for each of these apps here.

You can also use iCloud to share in­for­ma­tion from other apps too, such as Re­minders and Notes, book­marks that you have stored in Sa­fari, and the Pass­book app that stores in­for­ma­tion about air­line tick­ets and for now is your link to Ap­ple Pay.

It’s worth be­ing se­lec­tive here, as not all apps re­ally need to share data and info across your de­vices. I have lots of web pages book­marked on the iMac in my of­fice,

but I don’t want to mix them up with other web pages that I view on my iPhone, so I tend to turn off iCloud shar­ing for Sa­fari most of the time. Mail op­tions Although there’s a sim­ple switch that al­lows you to turn iCloud On or Off for Mail there’s also an­other set of Mail op­tions that are hid­den fur­ther down in the iCloud Set­tings panel.

Scroll right down to the ‘Ad­vanced’ sec­tion and tap on the en­try for Mail. That opens up a page that con­tains op­tions for man­ag­ing mul­ti­ple email ac­counts. Scroll down again, and tap on ‘Ad­vanced’ again, and you’ll now see a win­dow that al­lows you to con­trol how Mail han­dles dif­fer­ent mail­boxes. You can ac­tu­ally change which mail­boxes are used to store emails that you send and re­ceive. If you’re an email ob­ses­sive – or Hil­lary Clin­ton – you could spec­ify that emails that you

dis­card are archived for fu­ture re­trieval, rather than go­ing straight into the Trash and be­ing deleted.

You can also spec­ify how long deleted mes­sages stay in the Trash be­fore they are com­pletely re­moved. You can keep them for one day, one week or one month, or se­lect the ‘Never’ op­tion which leaves mes­sages in the Trash un­til you de­cide to delete them your­self.

iCloud Backup

Im­por­tant apps like Mail and Sa­fari get their own in­di­vid­ual con­trols for iCloud, but there’s an­other op­tion in here, sim­ply called Backup, that al­lows you to store data from a num­ber of ad­di­tional apps too.

The Backup op­tion is a lit­tle con­fus­ing, as it over­laps with the iCloud Photo Li­brary to some ex­tent. Turn­ing on iCloud Photo Li­brary stores your en­tire Photo Li­brary in iCloud and up­dates it con­tin­u­ously when­ever you shoot any new pho­tos and videos. The Backup op­tion works slightly dif­fer­ently – in fact, it’s a bit more like do­ing a Time Ma­chine backup on your Mac.

When you activate Backup in iCloud Set­tings your iPhone or iPad will au­to­mat­i­cally per­form one com­plete backup ev­ery day – but only when the de­vice is locked and not in use, and is be­ing charged and con­nected to a Wi-Fi net­work at the same time. That daily backup in­cludes pho­tos and videos, just like the iCloud Photo Li­brary, but it also in­cludes data from other apps too, such as text mes­sages, health data that is stored in HealthKit apps, and even de­tails of how you’ve or­ga­nized all your apps on your Home Screens.

Turn­ing off the iCloud Backup op­tion doesn’t af­fect im­por­tant apps, such as Mail and Con­tacts, so your most im­por­tant data is still pro­tected even if this op­tion is turned off. It’s still worth us­ing Backup ev­ery now and then, though, just in case any­thing goes wrong with your iPhone or iPad. If you don’t want to use Backup via Wi-Fi, you can also per­form a man­ual backup by us­ing a USB ca­ble to con­nect your iPhone or iPad to iTunes on your Mac. That’s a good op­tion too, as it al­lows you to store the backup on your Mac’s hard disk, rather than tak­ing up the lim­ited space in iCloud.

iCloud Se­cu­rity Code

There’s one other im­por­tant type of data that can be stored on iCloud. The iCloud Key­chain stores pri­vate

per­sonal data, such as pass­words for email ac­counts and web sites, and even credit card num­bers that you use on sites such as Ama­zon or eBay. This is very im­por­tant in­for­ma­tion, ob­vi­ously, so you can keep this in­for­ma­tion ex­tra safe by cre­at­ing an iCloud Se­cu­rity Code. If some­one gets hold of any of your Macs or iOS de­vices with­out your per­mis­sion they would need to know both your nor­mal iCloud pass­word and the ex­tra iCloud Se­cu­rity Code be­fore they could ac­cess your Key­chain.

I tend to keep Key­chain turned off on my iPhone, so that some im­por­tant pass­words that I have on my of­fice iMac aren’t shared with the iPhone when I’m away from the of­fice. But if you want to turn Key­chain on then you can sim­ply tap Key­chain in the iCloud Set­tings panel and then click the On/Off but­ton that ap­pears. Un­der­neath that but­ton you’ll also see the ‘Ad­vanced’ op­tion, which al­lows you to set up the ad­di­tional iCloud Se­cu­rity Code.

There are two op­tions here. You could choose to use your nor­mal iPhone Pass­code as the Se­cu­rity Code too. But, of course, if some­one man­ages to get hold of your pass­code then your iPhone is com­pletely de­fence­less. It’s bet­ter to cre­ate a sep­a­rate Se­cu­rity Code that has no con­nec­tion with your nor­mal pass­code. You can ei­ther opt for a sim­ple four-digit se­cu­rity code or let your de­vice gen­er­ate a longer, ran­dom code num­ber for you.

Apps and down­loads Con­trol Back­ground App Re­fresh

One op­tion that it’s use­ful to know about is the Back­ground Re­fresh panel. Many apps, such as

news­pa­pers and mag­a­zines, or weather and stock prices, can au­to­mat­i­cally up­date them­selves with new in­for­ma­tion even when you’re not ac­tu­ally us­ing them.

Al­low­ing apps to down­load data in the back­ground can save time if you’re a real news junkie or if you want to make a killing on the stock mar­ket, but it can also drain your bat­tery more quickly, so you might want to turn this op­tion off for some of your less es­sen­tial apps.

You can turn back­ground re­fresh on or off for each in­di­vid­ual app, but there’s also a mas­ter switch at the top of this panel that al­lows you to change the set­ting for all your apps at once.

iTunes set­tings

The next two set­tings pan­els pro­vide con­trols for iCloud and your iTunes ac­count. The iTunes op­tions are straight­for­ward enough, although you might want to turn off the Use Mo­bile Data op­tion that uses your mo­bile broad­band to au­to­mat­i­cally down­load items pur­chased on other de­vices – down­load­ing the full eight-hour ver­sion of Max Richter’s Sleep al­bum could bust your mo­bile broad­band data cap in no time flat.

Turn­ing the Mo­bile Data op­tion off does still al­low you to down­load pur­chases us­ing Wi-Fi. You can also turn the au­to­matic down­load op­tion on or

off for dif­fer­ent types of con­tent, such as mu­sic, apps and books. I tend to buy mu­sic us­ing iTunes on my Mac, but I like to have all my mu­sic stored on my iPhone as well, so I keep Au­to­matic Down­loads turned on for my mu­sic pur­chases. I don’t re­ally read books on the iPhone, though, so that one gets turned off.

Wi-Fi Sync op­tions

When iTunes was first launched more than a decade ago, the idea was that you would buy mu­sic and video us­ing iTunes on your Mac and then down­load your pur­chases onto ye olde iPod us­ing a USB ca­ble con­nec­tion. Nowa­days, though, many of us do ev­ery­thing on our iPhones and iPads, in­clud­ing buy­ing apps, mu­sic and videos, and we of­ten for­get to back up our pur­chases on to our Macs.

But, just be­low the Key­board set­tings you’ll see an op­tion called iTunes Wi-Fi Sync. Some­what iron­i­cally, you still have to use a USB ca­ble to con­nect your iOS de­vice to your Mac and then se­lect the Wi-Fi Sync op­tion within iTunes on your Mac in or­der to activate it on your iOS de­vice. How­ever, you only have to do that the first time, and af­ter that you can sync all your pur­chases back to your Mac via Wi-Fi. How­ever, Wi-Fi Sync only works if your iPhone or iPad is be­ing charged at the time, is on the same Wi-Fi net­work as your Mac, and you have iTunes open on your Mac.

Down­loads and Up­dates: Au­to­matic Down­loads

When the iPhone and iPad were first in­tro­duced they were ini­tially very de­pen­dent on iTunes run­ning on a Mac for mak­ing pur­chases and trans­fer­ring files. You’d

use iTunes on the Mac to buy apps, mu­sic and video, and then down­load them on to your iOS de­vices us­ing ye olde USB ca­ble.

How­ever, our mo­bile de­vices are now much more so­phis­ti­cated and self-con­tained, which means peo­ple can end up mak­ing pur­chases on sev­eral dif­fer­ent de­vices. I still tend to buy mu­sic on my iMac at home, but I down­load apps di­rectly onto my iPhone all the time, and buy books and mag­a­zines on my iPad when I’m slumped on the sofa at home. To help keep track of all your pur­chases, iOS in­cludes an op­tion called Au­to­matic Down­loads, which is tucked in­side the iTunes And App Store sec­tion of the main Set­tings panel.

There are four op­tions here, for mu­sic, apps, books and soft­ware up­dates. Turn­ing any of these op­tions on en­sures that items you pur­chase on one de­vice are au­to­mat­i­cally down­loaded on to other de­vices as well.

I re­cently bought a Muse al­bum, Drones, us­ing iTunes on my Mac. It’s not their best al­bum, but it has its mo­ments so I’ve turned on the Mu­sic op­tion in Au­to­matic Down­loads, which en­sures that the al­bum is au­to­mat­i­cally down­loaded on to my iPhone with­out me need­ing to plug it into my Mac.

There’s no op­tion to au­to­mat­i­cally down­load video files, as the down­loads take up too much time and stor­age space on your mo­bile de­vices. How­ever, even smaller au­dio files and app down­loads could still bust your phone’s monthly data cap, so this set­tings panel also in­cludes an op­tion to turn off ‘cel­lu­lar data’ (mo­bile broad­band) for au­to­matic down­loads. This en­sures that you only down­load pur­chases when your de­vice is con­nected to a Wi-Fi net­work.

There’s a cor­re­spond­ing op­tion in iTunes on the Mac, hid­den away in the Store tab of the iTunes pref­er­ences panel. This will au­to­mat­i­cally down­load any pur­chases that you make on your iOS de­vices onto your Mac – and your Mac can also down­load video pur­chases that may be too big to keep on your iPhone or iPad.

Down­loads and Up­dates: Sug­gested Apps

Right at the bot­tom of the iTunes And App Store set­tings panel is a not-very-well-known op­tion called Sug­gested Apps. If you’re out and about with your iPhone, this op­tion can use GPS to keep track of your lo­ca­tion and can sug­gest apps that might be use­ful in that lo­ca­tion. If you turn on My Apps, your iPhone will just look at the apps you al­ready have in­stalled – such as a Star­bucks app for or­der­ing and pay­ing for cof­fee – and dis­play the icon for that app on your lock screen so that you can

launch it right away. The App Store op­tion also al­lows your iPhone to check on the App Store to see if there are other apps avail­able that might be use­ful, such as air­line sched­ules when you ar­rive at an air­port.

Down­loads and Up­dates: App Set­tings

The next sec­tion in Set­tings is for the Pass­book and Ap­ple Pay, how­ever we’ve al­ready looked at Ap­ple Pay in de­tail so we won’t re­peat that info here. That leaves one fi­nal sec­tion within Set­tings, which con­sists of a long list of the in­di­vid­ual apps that are in­stalled on your iPhone or iPad.

These are di­vided into two cat­e­gories – Ap­ple’s own apps, and the third-party apps that you have bought and down­loaded from the App Store. The third-party apps will ob­vi­ously vary from per­son to per­son, but it’s worth tak­ing a closer look at some

of Ap­ple’s pre­in­stalled apps as we some­times take these for granted.

Some of the op­tions here are pretty straight­for­ward – for in­stance, the Maps app al­lows you to dis­play dis­tances in ei­ther in miles or kilo­me­tres, while Compass lets you switch be­tween ‘true’ north and mag­netic north. How­ever, there are a num­ber of key apps that many of us use ev­ery day, and which pro­vide a num­ber of use­ful op­tions that you may not know about.

Down­loads and Up­dates: Mail, Con­tacts, Cal­en­dars

The three key apps here are the Mail, Con­tacts and Cal­en­dars apps, which are grouped to­gether within a sin­gle set­tings panel. That’s a lit­tle un­tidy, but they’re prob­a­bly all put to­gether like this be­cause these are the three main apps that give you the choice to ei­ther ‘push’ or ‘fetch’ new data.

Most apps go to sleep when you’re not ac­tu­ally us­ing them, and only ‘fetch’ new data when you launch the app once more. When I launch my BBC News app it will check to see if I have an In­ter­net con­nec­tion and then con­nect with the BBC servers to see if there are any new head­lines that it can ‘fetch’ for me to read. How­ever, some apps also have a ‘push’ op­tion that al­lows new data to au­to­mat­i­cally be ‘pushed’ straight into them as soon as it be­comes avail­able.

What hap­pens with an app like Mail is that your email server does all the work, and au­to­mat­i­cally pushes new email mes­sages straight onto your iPhone or iPad with­out wait­ing for the app to wake up and fetch the mes­sages for it­self. When the app re­ceives a new

email it wakes up – even if it’s not run­ning on screen at that mo­ment – and can pop a no­ti­fi­ca­tion on screen to tell you that the mes­sage has ar­rived.

That’s ob­vi­ously use­ful, but some peo­ple ar­gue that us­ing push tech­nol­ogy con­tin­u­ously can drain your bat­tery more quickly, so the Mail, Con­tacts, Cal­en­dars set­tings panel in­cludes an op­tion called Fetch New Data that lets you turn off the push op­tion so these three apps will only fetch new data when you tell them to.

There’s ac­tu­ally a lot of de­bate on the in­ter­net about whether ‘push’ or ‘fetch’ drains your bat­tery more quickly, but Ap­ple’s own web site sug­gests us­ing the Fetch op­tion to max­imise bat­tery life, so that’s good enough for us. In any event, your Wi-Fi us­age and screen bright­ness prob­a­bly have far more ef­fect on bat­tery life than the push and fetch op­tions, so this isn’t some­thing that you need to worry about too much.

There are other apps that can use push tech­nol­ogy too, although these apps may some­times re­fer to it as ‘back­ground re­fresh’ in­stead. The BBC News app has op­tions for both back­ground re­fresh and no­ti­fi­ca­tions, so that it can give you an on-screen no­ti­fi­ca­tion if a ma­jor news story breaks.

Plenty of other apps pro­vide sim­i­lar op­tions, cov­er­ing ev­ery­thing from stock prices to spe­cial of­fers at your lo­cal su­per­mar­ket, so you’ll need to de­cide how much of this in­for­ma­tion you re­ally want to see when you’re choos­ing set­tings for all your apps.

Stop sub­scrip­tion auto-re­newals on the iPhone

Mil­lions of peo­ple signed up for the new Ap­ple Mu­sic ser­vice when it was launched at the end of June – tempted, of course, by the of­fer of a free trial that lasted for a full three months. Many have now come

to the end of that trial pe­riod, and will need to de­cide if they want to can­cel their sub­scrip­tion to Ap­ple Mu­sic or to start pay­ing for it.

We’ve looked at Ap­ple Mu­sic in de­tail else­where so we won’t re­peat that in­for­ma­tion here, but there are lots of other apps avail­able for the iPhone and iPad that may also re­quire monthly sub­scrip­tion fees. It’s worth know­ing how iOS man­ages these sub­scrip­tions so that you don’t ac­ci­den­tally end up pay­ing for ser­vices that you no longer want to use.

Scroll down the main Set­tings panel and tap on the item marked App and iTunes Stores. You’ll see your Ap­ple ID shown at the top of this set­tings panel, and you can tap on that to view sub­scrip­tions and other set­tings as­so­ci­ated with your per­sonal Ap­ple ID ac­count.

Your Ac­count page in­cludes de­tails such as the pay­ment method you have cho­sen for all your pur­chases, and there’s also a sec­tion la­belled Sub­scrip­tions. Tap the ‘Man­age’ but­ton and you’ll see a list of ev­ery app you own that may re­quire a sub­scrip­tion pay­ment. Need­less to say, Ap­ple Mu­sic sits right at the top of the list (here’s how to switch off the Ap­ple Mu­sic auto-re­newal), but I have also taken out sub­scrip­tions to Eurosport and a few mag­a­zines and news­pa­pers in the past – most of which I no longer use.

The sta­tus of all these ser­vices is listed, so you can see which ones are ac­tive and which ones have ex­pired. You can tap on each ser­vice in­di­vid­u­ally to see the dates when each sub­scrip­tion ex­pires, and then de­cide whether you want to re­new again or sim­ply can­cel your sub­scrip­tion.

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