Kentish Express Ashford & District - What's On

It’s your bread and butter

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Is there anything better than homemade bread and butter?

If you think not, then you’ll appreciate Bread & Butter by baker Richard Snapes and chef Grant Harrison - it’s both a cookbook, and a cultural and historical look at two of our most fundamenta­l foods. We’ve grown incredibly used to sliced white, largely because “it tastes like cake”, says Richard, when “real bread should only be flour and water and a little salt.”

The 90-100 sourdough loaves he sells a day, though, are the epitome of real. However, ask him about the age of his sourdough starter (wild yeast) and you’ll be treated to a wry eye-roll.

“I have a bee in my bonnet about starter stories,” he says, incredulou­s at the bread world’s penchant for putting ancient ones on a pedestal.

Of his signature field loaf, a versatile plain loaf loaded with wheat, he says: “It’s really nostalgic. It smells like a field of harvested wheat after it’s rained.”

Bread & Butter: History, Culture, Recipes by Richard Snapes, Grant Harrington and Eve Hemingway is published by Quadrille, priced £22

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