The truf­fle butty

Lancashire Life - - FOOD & DRINK -

At a truf­fle fes­ti­val, run by the US arm of Paul’s com­pany in Cal­i­for­nia’s Napa Val­ley, he was in­tro­duced to what’s now his favourite truf­fle dish by top chef Ken Frank. ‘He kept telling me you have to try the truf­fle sand­wich. I did. It is so in­tense it’s ridicu­lous,’ says Paul. Take two pieces of topqual­ity white bread like cia­batta, spread one side of each with good but­ter and fill the sand­wich with sliced truf­fle. Squash it gen­tly but firmly and leave it wrapped or boxed in the fridge for about 20 hours, then fry it both sides in more but­ter, and eat at once. niche. A hectare needs about 1,500 and a nor­mal orchard is maybe 1,600 trees. We have more than 30 or­chards around the coun­try now, in­clud­ing some in Lan­cashire. But we need more.’

It’s a highly tech­ni­cal busi­ness. Spores are pro­cessed in their lab­o­ra­tory on the Isle of Bute, but the trees are raised and in­oc­u­lated in Lan­cashire. To keep flavour­less in­ter­lop­ers like the Chi­nese truf­fle out, the seed truf­fles are all Dnat­ested to make sure they’re the de­sired na­tive sum­mer truf­fle

‘Paul rec­om­mends the springer spaniel as ideal, though he knows of cor­gis, labradors and even chi­huahuas be­ing trained to find truf­fles’

(in fact na­tive to 26 coun­tries across Europe, and known in France as the Bur­gundy truf­fle) or the Perig­ord truf­fle, and the green­house and all their equip­ment kept scrupu­lously clean by the care­fully trained team of experts.

Inoc­u­la­tion is only the start of the tricky process, which is why Paul’s pre­ferred busi­ness model is a 70/30 part­ner­ship with the orchard own­ers, his staff pro­vid­ing con­sul­tancy to max­imise the yield of aro­matic fungi.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.