A grating noise from the front wheels deserves more than just a new wheel bearing, as Dave Barker explains
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DAVE BARKER
Freeelander 2 DIY project
he Freelander 2’s front suspension comprises Macpherson spring and damper struts bolted to the wheel hubs, held in position to subframes by upper and lower pivoting. Traditional ball joints and wheel bearings complete the steering and suspension set-up. Like all moving suspension and steering parts, they wear out with age and use, especially ball joints and wheel bearings.
In the case of this eight-year-old Freelander 2 with 95,000 miles on the clock, a worn wheel bearing was very noticeable. When the front left-hand wheel was rotated by hand, the wheel bearing produced an unmistakable grating noise, and a small amount of play could also be felt in the wheel. A new bearing was needed. However, replacing the bearing is not just as simple as it sounds. A front hub and bearing for a Freelander 2 is part number LR003157 and costs around £178. Land Rover advises that a special tool in the form of a press and various spacers is
Tused to press it into the wheel knuckle. It is possible to use a similar press and spacers, but it’s not an easy task, and the bearing can be damaged. There is another option however that not only makes the job quicker and easier, but is also cheaper. That option is to replace the complete front steering knuckle, wheel hub and bearing assembly. It’s part number DA1214 and costs around £110, and it’s the option that most repairers choose in fact.
This guide to the procedures involved shows how the job has been carried out by Maddison 4x4 at Topcliffe near Thirsk. If doing this job yourself, it is important to use the relevant Land Rover workshop manual with up-to-date tightening torques and procedures. If you are unsure of any procedures, always seek expert advice and consult a qualified mechanic. All references to part numbers and torque settings should be double-checked to ensure they are relevant to your vehicle: there are variations between different models and model years.
With the driveshaft removed from the hub/wheel knuckle assembly, it is knocked downward off the Macpherson strut.
Using a suitable soft punch, the driveshaft is then knocked back through the front hub assembly and the wheel knuckle.
When the drive shaft has been knocked back, the wheel knuckle can be pulled outward, moving it clear of the driveshaft.
Once removed from the wheel knuckle, the sensor is carefully moved clear of the work to avoid it becoming damaged.
With care, as the Torx bolt is easily snapped, the securing bolt holding the Abs/speed sensor into the wheel knuckle is undone and removed.
Again with care, as its easily damaged, a pry bar eases the ABS/ speed sensor out from the top of the wheel knuckle.
The securing nut holding the suspension lower control arm onto the wheel knuckle is removed, and then the ball joint can be split.
The brake disc single retaining screw that holds the brake disc in position onto the front hub assembly is removed.
The brake caliper’s two securing bolts are removed and the complete brake caliper assembly lifted off from the brake disc.
The wheel bearing is contained in the wheel steering knuckle, which is secured onto the Macpherson strut and lower arm.
The three screws that are securing the brake disc shield onto the wheel knuckle are removed, then the brake shield is lifted off.
Working at the back of the hub assembly, the securing bolts that are holding the brake caliper assembly to the wheel knuckle are released.
Front wheel hub bearing and steering knuckle assembly is part number DA1214, and a new driveshaft retainer bolt is part number LR000577.
The clamp bolt securing the wheel knuckle top onto the left hand Macpherson strut is undone. More often than not this is seized.
Once the disc is removed we could see that corrosion had rusted the inside of the brake disc onto the hub assembly.
If the brake disc is seized onto the hub assembly, it is removed from the hub using a soft-faced hammer. Light force may be required.
The driveshaft retainer bolt securing the driveshaft end to the wheel hub is removed and discarded, as a new one should be fitted during assembly.
The ball joint nut securing the steering rack tie-rod to the wheel knuckle is undone and removed, and the rod released using a ball joint splitter.
Once removed, the brake caliper assembly is secured clear of the wheel knuckle so as to not strain the brake hose.
Now, the new wheel hub bearing and knuckle assembly is fitted into position on the Macpherson strut and the clamp bolt refitted.
With the wheel hub bearing and knuckle assembly in position, the driveshaft can be slid back into the new hub and the lower arm refitted.
With the help of a pry bar, the complete wheel knuckle and hub assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.
With the job now completed, the road wheel is refitted, and the wheel nuts tightened to the correct torque setting.
With the driveshaft now in position the Abs/speed sensor is fitted into the hub assembly, and the retaining bolt fitted.
The brake disc shield is refitted and the three retaining screws tightened. The shield prevents brake dust from spreading and keeps dirt off the disc.
Before refitting the brake disc, some anti-seize grease is applied to the hub to prevent the disc seizing onto the hub again.
A new driveshaft retainer bolt is screwed into the end of the driveshaft. It is recommended that a new bolt is used every time.
The brake disc and caliper are refitted, tightening all bolts to the specified torque. At this stage, all bolts are re-checked for tightness.
The driveshaft bolt is tightened to the correct torque setting. This process pulls the shaft fully into position in the hub.
The steering tie-rod end ball joint is fitted into the wheel knuckle, and the ball joint securing nut is fitted and tightened.