Wet and Wild in Wales
Where would you like to be if exploring Mid Wales on a wild, wet and windy day? In your Land Rover, of course…
ALL GOOD greenlaning days should begin with a quality bacon butty and coffee stop; this one is certainly no different. I meet the convoy at the Glanusk Coffee Shop in Sennybridge; it lies on the A40 in the north-western corner of the Brecon Beacons National Park.
One of my favourite things about coming to Wales is their melodic way of speaking. Despite the fact that I am only ordering a Welsh breakfast and large mug of coffee, I ask a few irrelevant questions just to hear the lady behind the counter speak. While waiting for the order I go online to see the reviews of the coffee shop. It’s one of those places that has 99 good reviews and one bad review. I cannot help myself and so I check out the profile of the person who complained. In one of his other reviews he complains that the chicken at KFC is junk food. He is one of those who would complain if he won the lottery. The breakfast does not disappoint and I would definitely recommend this cafe if laning in Mid Wales.
We are a convoy of three and as I will be photographing I jump in with Ian and Keri Hulme in their Discovery 2. Ian the Welshman is literally a larger-than-life figure and knows these lanes like the back of his hand. He has been exploring them for many years now. Keri is on cake and GPS duties. We will be in the front of the convoy so that I can get the necessary images, and I sign up for gate-opening duties. I can confidently declare that there are more than one or two gates on these lanes. Then we have Mandy and Keith Verren in a Defender 90 pick-up, while Matthew Evans and his family in his Discovery 2 complete the convoy. Matthew informs me during breakfast that he has just installed a new Td5 engine in his D2.
Our first few lanes lie just to the west of Sennybridge and then after our lunch stop at the popular Llanerchindda Farm, we plan on exploring some lanes to the north of Llandovery. Contrary to popular belief Llandovery is not the Welsh word for Land Rover. Though if JLR were to build a factory in Wales then Llandovery would not be the worst option.
Our first lane, Mynydd Bach Trecastell, is only a few minutes away from the Sennybridge. It’s along an old Roman road and starts off with a gentle climb. There are great views
off to our left of the Usk Reservoir and the large Glasfynydd Forest. The lane is pretty bumpy in parts but we are in Land Rovers not Roman chariots so there are no complaints from us. It’s only just above freezing outside but the spectacular vistas warm us up. As this is an old Roman road we pass a Roman camp and fort as we make our way down the tricky decline towards the end of the lane. It’s one of those lanes where you have to pinch yourself because you can’t believe that all of this is right on your doorstep.
It’s about a 20 minute transit west to Talsarn where our next lane begins. Just before we get there I spot a red kite on a post. Twenty metres later I see a sign for the Red Kite Feeding Centre (redkiteswales.co.uk). Wales is thought to have around 600 red kite breeding pairs, and if you are passing this centre around feeding time it would be silly not to stop.
Our second lane, Rhiwiau, starts with a tree-lined climb on a hard, rocky track. Once it flattens out at the top the rocks are replaced with green grass. There are magnificent views to the south of the barren Black Mountain peaks. Once again we enjoy sweeping valley views before easing our way down a gentle rocky track to the end of the lane.
“We head into a forest that has it all: ruts, mud, water and steps ”
A good little detour from here is the nearby Carreg Cennen Castle, said to be the most romantic ruined castle in all of Wales. If you’re not afraid of dark tunnels then don’t forget to take along a torch so that you can walk along the stony passage to a hidden cave. It’s definitely worth it.
Our third lane lies just south of Llandovery. It starts with a gentle drive through a working farm before we head into a forest which literally has it all: shallow ruts, deep ruts, mud, water and steps. Twice Ian has to disembark, grab a long stick and test the depth of the water. Fortunately it looks worse than what it actually is. There are different possibilities on this lane but we take a left turn, leaving the ruts behind as we climb a hill instead. We have to stop to clear some small trees that have fallen into the path. The lane crosses a tar road before entering the woods again. The last part of the lane is not as challenging as the first. To get to our fourth lane we have to pass through the pretty market town of Llandovery, which once served as an important stop for Welsh drivers taking their cattle to the English markets. I also find out that the name has nothing to do with Land Rovers, in fact it means ‘the church among the waters’.
Our fourth lane starts just to the north-west of Llandovery at Porthyrhyd. It starts with a long climb up a very rocky track. It’s pretty rutted at the top so do expect to bounce about a bit. Getting down the lane is just as fun as the running water has created some washouts and ruts. Before the splash at the finish at Aberbowlan there is a side slope to negotiate. I spot a Series II in the field as we make our way towards the start of the nearby fifth lane at the Blaen-dyffryn Farm. It starts with a climb up the side of a hill and soon we enter yet another forest. Actually it feels more like a maze as there are many tracks to choose from. We are lucky to have Ian with us. We take a right, head through a gate and onto an easy gravel track through the forest. The best part of the lane is the tricky switchbacks as we make our way down the very steep hill they call Pen Lifau. According to my map the trig point at the top of the hill is 365 metres above sea level.
It’s been a great morning of laning and Ian calls a halt at the Llanerchindda Farm before we take in the last few lanes of the day. I would definitely recommend this family guest farm as a base to explore the area. We’re met by Lynn and Martin Hadley and their sons Andrew and Mark, who are all involved in the running of this popular place. You will struggle to find a more Landy-loyal family in all of Wales. Lynn drives a bright orange Evoque convertible while Martin has opted for a Disco 4 Landmark Edition, while the brothers share a Disco Sport. Andrew will be guiding us after lunch in the farm’s Defender 110 Td5. An hour passes in no time as the Hadley family share with us details of all there is to do and see in the area. I can see myself returning here in the future with family and friends.
After lunch I jump in with Andrew as he first takes us on some of the farm’s private 4x4 tracks. We skip the most technical bits as you will need a winch to get up some of the inclines. If you do stay on the farm then you automatically get access to the private 4x4 track for a small fee. That is definitely another reason to come and stay at the farm, plus the Hadley family can share with you where the best lanes in the area are.
Our sixth lane is Pantllechddu, initially rocky and bouncy with ruts but they are soon replaced with some fun long
water and mud holes. The weather has been pretty crazy with all four seasons in one day, there has been loads of rain in the past week and so some of the water holes are nice and deep. Everyone is smiling as they drive through them.
It’s a short transit south to our seventh lane, now sleet replaces the sunshine. The track we use to climb up onto the plateau is in good nick. Once at the top we enter another scenic forest. Despite the turn in the weather Andrew is still only in a T-shirt. I am in a thick jacket. They obviously breed ’em tough in these valleys.
The eighth lane of the day is best described as a link lane to our final lane. It’s not technical though there is a little ford at the end of the downhill to the finish. To get to our final and ninth lane of the day we have to cross the A483, which lies just to the south of Llanwrtyd Wells. It seems as if Ian and Andrew have saved the best for last. The final lane, Crychan Forest, has it all: water, drama, rocks and more water. Also it’s a pretty long lane that traverses the forest. According to our guides the lane has changed over the years though it almost always has water. Lots of it. Probably not as dramatic as Strata Florida but still definitely worth a visit if laning in the area.
Father Time has caught up with us and at the end of the lane we have to say our goodbyes. Wales has once again blown me away with its beauty, breakfast and friendly people. It’s an affordable and memorable 4x4 getaway. It’s the kind of place LRM readers will just love to explore this summer. What are you waiting for? Call Llanerchindda Farm and make a booking. I can’t wait to go back. I just have to convince my Irish wife that the food is just as good as the mother-inlaw’s.