Land Rover Monthly

Removing the downpipe and catalytic convertor

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Dropping the undershiel­ds

1 As with most jobs when working under a Discovery 3, the engine and gearbox undershiel­ds are unbolted. This gives access to the front of the downpipe.

Leak source

2 Soot on the pipe and cross-member was visible before the undershiel­ds came off. Now we see the source of the leak, on the flexible section above.

Unbolting the propshaft

3 The bolts and the washer plates holding the front propshaft to the front diff and the transfer box are removed, but the prop will stay there for now.

Transmissi­on crossmembe­r

4 To extract the prop, the crossmembe­r needs to be removed. We needed heat to release the two seized nuts and bolts at each side. Bolts are left in for now.

Transfer box support

5 This single long bolt securing transfer box to its mounting bracket on the transmissi­on crossmembe­r is now removed, withdrawin­g it through its bushing.

Unclipping

6 Before the transmissi­on crossmembe­r can be removed, the fuel solenoid, hoses and multi-plug need to be unclipped from the rear of the crossmembe­r.

Detaching shield

7 Attached to the front of the crossmembe­r is this heat shield which protects the fuel filter. This is held in position by three bolts, and needs to be removed.

Supporting the weight

8 Before removing the crossmembe­r, we fit a correctly rated transmissi­on jack bolted to the underside of the transmissi­on for support after the crossmembe­r is removed.

Crossmembe­r out

9 Once the transmissi­on is safely supported, the four loose securing bolts are removed from the chassis mounting brackets and the crossmembe­r pulled down and out.

Propshaft out

10 With the crossmembe­r now removed, the front propshaft can be lowered, then pulled backwards to remove it from under the vehicle.

Nuts to release

11 With the crossmembe­r and propshaft removed, we are able to look upwards to see the three manifold nuts (arrowed) that secure the downpipe in position.

More heat shields

12 One of the manifold nuts can be more easily accessed from the wheel arch, once these three sections of heat shield have been removed.

Spanner access

13 We can now reach the outside exhaust manifold nut, but it’s seized so we need to heat it to avoid snapping the stud and causing a bigger job.

More heat needed

14 Other nuts are reached from below. All three fixings may need warming to remove the nuts without shearing the studs. The old nuts should be discarded.

Moving down

15 Lower down the pipe, the exhaust clamp which is securing the front downpipe section to the rear pipe of the exhaust system now needs to be released.

Unhook

16 This hanger rod is unhooked out of its rubber hanger which is linked over the chassis rod. A spray with penetratin­g oil helps to ease the rubber off.

Pipe seizure

17 The front section of the exhaust pipe is often seized into the rear section of the pipe, in which case, cutting the pipe is often the only option.

Removing the pipe

18 With the front downpipe disconnect­ed front and rear, it can be pulled off the manifold studs and then manoeuvred backwards to extract it from the vehicle.

Removing cut end

19 With care, and after a bit of effort and pulling, the remaining cut short section of the front exhaust pipe is worked out from the rear section of the pipe.

Minor defect

20 Apart from the failure of the woven flexible section at the front of the pipe, the remainder of the pipe and the integral catalytic convertor appear serviceabl­e.

Thread care

21 Before installing the replacemen­t front downpipe and catalytic convertor, the manifold stud threads are cleaned and a new exhaust manifold gasket is fitted

New nuts

22 The new downpipe is eased onto the manifold studs, taking care not to damage the threads, nor to dislodge the gasket. New nuts fitted, but not tightened.

Rebuilding

23 The rear of the front pipe (exhaust paste applied) is slid into the rear section. Now, the three manifold nuts are torqued up, and the rear pipe clamp tightened.

Clips and shields

24 The job is now a reversal of dismantlin­g, ensuring bolts and nuts are torque-tightened. Prop, transmissi­on crossmembe­r and transfer box bolt are fitted before removing transmissi­on jack.

Not pretty yet

25 Fuel solenoid, hoses and multi-plug are now clipped back onto the crossmembe­r, the heat shield bolted back into position, and the undertrays refitted to complete the job.

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