Let there be light
Adding windows to a Defender commercial can improve visibility while transforming the vehicle’s character, as Trevor Cuthbert discovers
How to fit panoramic windows
THE downside of having solid van sides on a Defender is that there is an expansive blind spot area when pulling up to a junction to make a right turn – the vehicle must be at 90 degrees to the main road, in order to see through the passenger door glass for oncoming traffic. The lack of rear quarter lights also has an impact on visibility, particularly when reversing. And, in my opinion, rear quarter lights are part of the iconic form of Land Rovers. It was due to the blind spot issue that this 110 came to me to have side windows fitted.
There are many window options including Genuine Parts sliding window units. However, the owner of the 110 liked the look of the bonded, tinted panoramic windows offered by specialist, Masai. These dark tinted, toughened glass window panels are bonded on to the aluminium sides of the Defender, offering vision on both sides and at the rear. Here’s how the job was done.
In the way
1 The spare wheel and swingaway wheel carrier top bracket are removed to give access to fit the quarter light windows either side of Safari door.
Cut- outs
2 The window kits are supplied with templates for the side and rear window cut-outs for all Defenders. These are cut out, supervised by my dog, Luna.
All included
3 For commercial Defenders with no quarter lights fitted, templates are supplied to cut out apertures in the rear panels for these too.
Work from the rear forward
4 With the rear side panel temporarily held in position by adhesive tape, the template is taped on and the cut line is carefully drawn with a marker pen.
Peel it off
5 The template is removed, leaving the aperture marking clearly seen on the red panel. As long as our cutting skills are good, the fit will be perfect.
How will this line up?
6 The rear templates are taped on in order to mark the apertures, and here the glass is being offered up to ensure alignment with the body panel is optimum.
Mark it in the middle
7 The circumference of the hole cutter is aligned with each corner of the aperture markings, then the centre of the tool is marked for the pilot drill hole.
A circle marks the spot
8 This is the position where we want the hole cutter’s pilot drill to be, in order that the hole cutter saw cuts exactly up to the pen line.
Punch it
9 The position is further marked by using a centre punch to give a start to the drill. The soft metal doesn’t need to be hit too hard!
A tiny hole
10 To ensure that there is no chance of the hole cutter slipping and causing unwanted damage, an initial pilot hole is drilled using a 4 mm drill bit.
A brutal cut
11 Now, on this rear quarter panel, the hole cutter is employed, knowing we have the exact location and no risk of accidentally damaging the remaining panel.
An accurate job
12 All four corners of every aperture in the body panels are cut with the hole saw, nicely aligned against the pen marks drawn on the Land Rover.
The first saw cut
13 Using a reciprocal saw and starting at one of the corners, the panel to be removed is cut along the marked line slowly towards the next hole.
Straight lines
14 As the reciprocal saw reaches the next hole, the benefits of such careful marking, pilot hole drilling and hole-saw cutting can be clearly seen.
Keep it sharp
15 Moving on to the right side panel, the same techniques are employed on the much larger aperture to be cut out, but now using a fresh sharp blade.
Hold it steady . . .
16 As the larger panel is cut out, it will begin to vibrate and flap around. Each cut line is therefore taped to the outer panel to suppress this.
. . . and hold it in place
17 The tape also keeps the cut panel from falling out and causing damage to the bodywork. It can now be removed in a more controlled manner.
Fine tuning
18 The saw leaves a rough cut edge, so this is smoothed down using a fine flap disc on the angle grinder and finished with a small hand file.
Scratching the surface
19 The paintwork, to which the new glass is to be bonded, is lightly roughed up using a Scotch-brite pad to key the paint surface for good adhesion.
Prime mover
20 Having trial fitted the side window to mark the edges with masking tape, the process of applying the special primer begins along the line of the tape.
Close to the edge
21 Because the bonding adhesive will not be applied right to the edge of the window (so that it does not ooze out) a 20 mm tape line is used to mark a boundary.
Cover all bare metal
22 The inside cut edges also receive a coat of the primer to suppress the raw metal. This would be particularly important with a steel panel to prevent rust.
Remove the tape
23 Now that the primer has been applied and dried a little, the masking tape is all peeled off to reveal the area where the adhesive bond agent will be applied.
The strengthening rib hides it
24 The glass being applied to this uncut area would create an air pocket that would compromise the bond. These air holes prevent this and are not visible inside.
One side ready
25 Fully prepared and primed with all of the masking tape and covers removed, this side panel is now good to have the adhesive applied and the windows bonded.
Clean as a whistle
26 Each of the new glass panels are meticulously cleaned on the inside, so that the best possible bond can be made. Rubber interface strips are applied where needed.
Special applicator
27 A V-shaped bead of Polyurethane windscreen adhesive is applied in one smooth action around the edges of the primed area, ideally without any breaks.
The first pane
28 The rear quarter light glass is offered up to the adhesive bead and pressed on with firm even pressure to create the strong bond to the Land Rover.
Wonderful beads
29 Next the adjacent side panel receives a bead of adhesive all the way around the primed line, in the same fashion as the rear quarter panel.
We’re bonding
30 The rear side glass is pressed on to create the bond, while making sure that the corner interface is neat and that alignment along the side is good.
Twin beads
31 At the front section of the side panel, another bead of adhesive is applied to the primed area at the outer edges and around the vision panel within the glass.
One man’s vision
32 The front section, incorporating the vision panel, is offered up – this time alignment with the rear panel is key, as well as along the length.
Completing the look
33 The new rear window is made from tinted privacy glass to match the side and rear quarter panels that have been fitted to the Land Rover.
Saving the seal
34 Using a blunt pointed tool, from the inside, the rear window rubber seal is eased over the lip on the rear door, taking care that the window is held on the outside.
Out it comes
35 With the rubber seal released around the top and both sides, the rear window is angled out and lifted off the bottom of the door aperture.
A simple tool
36 The original seal is fitted to the glass, and a strong length of rope is inserted around the outside of the seal, with a loop on each side.
Pulling it all together
37 A helper holds the glass and seal in place while, inside, the rope is pulled out evenly from both sides, flexing the seal over the frame flange.
So effective
38 Here you can see how the rope action works. It is pulled from the channel evenly from all four points to ensure the window is kept central in the door.
Final bond
39 Studs for the high-level brake light are bonded with window adhesive. As the excess oozes out, it will lift off with the masking tape after drying.
Job done
40 With the tail door glass now fitted and the heating elements and brake light wired up, the spare wheel and its carrier are re-fitted to complete the job.
Transformation
41 The window panels give the 110 a new appearance. There’s still privacy inside, but the driver can now clearly see though the windows to check traffic.