Stripping the chassis

There’s more to it than simply unbolting parts – it needs to be done carefully and in logical order, as Trevor explains

There’s more to it than simply unbolting parts, we show how to it carefully and in logical order

WHEN this Defender 90 Td5 station wagon was originally inspected it was clear that a new chassis was not only warranted, but was the only sensible solution to preserve the Land Rover for years to come. Having removed the body in one piece, the next job is to remove everything that is reusable from the rolling chassis, ready to transfer to the new heavy-duty galvanised chassis.

There is no strict order to the process of stripping a rolling chassis, although it becomes clear that there is a logical order to things. For instance, it is fairly obvious to remove the engine and gearboxes first. Removal of the axles is usually one of the last tasks undertaken. I almost always leave the rear axle loosely in place so I can use it to roll the chassis out of the workshop like a wheelbarrow with the front dumb irons of the chassis acting as the handles. That’s handy for loading to be taken away to the scrap metal recyclers.

Otherwise, the rest of the job can be undertaken in any order that pleases you, although I generally work from front to back.

Steering gear

1 After removing the split pin, the castellated nut is removed using a 19 mm spanner so that the steering arm can be separated from the steering box.

Hit the right spot

2 The steering arm is tight, but a careful smack with a heavy hammer separates it from the ball joint. Ball joint splitter tool does a gentler job.

Steering geometry

3 The Panhard rod is released from the chassis mounting bracket by removing the M14 nut and bolt, using a 22 mm socket wrench and spanner.

Free it up

4 The Panhard rod bracket is unbolted from the steering box, and the two bolts that hold the bracket to the chassis are also loosened, all using a 19 mm socket wrench.

Prevents the mess

5 The front brake pipes are disconnected from the flexible hoses and remaining fluid collected. Hoses are unbolted from the chassis (or cut if not to be re-used).

Lot of force

6 To remove the tow bar bolts, this three quarter inch drive socket wrench needed an extension bar to move things initially. Ensure the vehicle is stable before using such leverage.

Added extras

7 The station wagon models have front and rear anti-roll bars, so the M10 bolts are removed to separate them from the chassis brackets, at the front.

Rolling chassis

8 After the body has been lifted off, everything on the rolling chassis is so much easier to get access to, making the stripdown fairly easy.

Disconnect

9 Here the earth straps from the chassis loom are disconnected from the transfer gearbox by removing the bolt with a 10 mm socket wrench.

Exhaust bracket

10 The exhaust downpipe will remain with the engine, having already detached the rest of the exhaust system, so this last connection to the chassis is undone.

PAS

11 There are two pipes connected to the steering box that need to be detached: one with a 16 mm spanner and the other with a 14 mm spanner.

Avoid the mess

12 The power steering fluid unavoidably leaks out when the pipes are disconnected, but a large drip tray on the floor will catch most of it.

Squeeze the sides

13 The fuel feed and fuel return hoses are disconnected from the engine by unclipping the simple, but effective, hose ends from the pipes on the engine.

Free the engine

14 A single M12 flange nut holds the engine to the mounting rubber assembly on each side, which is removed using an 18 mm socket wrench.

Keenly balanced

15 Using two lifting eyes on the engine and the one lifting point at the gearboxes, the chains will lift the assembly in a safe and level manner.

Straight up

16 The engine and gearboxes lump is lifted entirely clear of the chassis, checking carefully for possible snagging on the steering box and the front cross member.

Roll it away

17 For best safety practice, the engine crane should not be moved while supporting the load. Instead the chassis is pushed back, clear of the lump.

A little safer now

18 With the engine and gearboxes lowered almost to the floor, the crane and load can be safely moved – taking great care and without letting the load swing.

They often break

19 The fuel lines are attached to the top of the chassis by a series of plastic clips, which are carefully prised off using this trim tool.

Years of dirt

20 The top of the fuel tank and pump assembly have been hidden under the bodywork since manufacture and need a thorough, but careful, cleaning.

Now we can see them

21 With the excess dirt removed, the four fuel hoses are unclipped from the fuel pump assembly by careful squeezing of the attachment lugs.

No need to disconnect

22 The fuel filter housing, with fuel filter remaining in place, is unbolted from the chassis and is lifted away with all of the fuel hoses – as one assembly.

We need access

23 The tank is full of fuel and the fuel pump needs to be inspected, so the retaining ring is tapped counter clockwise to allow the pump’s removal.

Consider replacement

24 The fuel pump is withdrawn from the tank and found to be very dirty and is known to be quite tired, having covered almost 200,000 miles from new.

Ready to be pulled through

25 The rear of the chassis loom is fed out under this bracket on the chassis, so that it is all clear of the fuel tank.

After the fuel was removed

26 This section of the chassis bracket has been cut away to allow the tank to be lifted straight up and out of the chassis.

Time saved

27 The fuel tank carrier is not being removed from the chassis as it is heavily corroded, so there is no choice but to fit a new one.

Perfectly serviceable

28 Both of the engine mountings are unbolted from their captive nuts in the chassis and will be refitted to the new chassis, as their condition is good.

Often rusted

29 The front suspension turrets are lifted off after applying easing oil and releasing the upper damper nuts plus four M8 nuts holding each turret to the chassis.

Pulled through

30 The chassis wiring loom is removed from the chassis rail very carefully at the rear – it is a very expensive component for the Td5 models.

PAS removal

31 The four M12 bolts that fix the steering box to the chassis are removed with the 19 mm socket wrench, after the lock tab washers are bent out of the way.

Wiggle it free

32 The Panhard rod is levered out of the chassis bracket. The bracket is withdrawn from the chassis, in this case with one bolt still rusted in place.

Worth saving

33 The rear top damper mounts may be rusty looking but they are still serviceable, so the three M10 bolts are removed to liberate them from the chassis.

These are tricky

34 The A-frame forward chassis brackets (crow’s feet) are held by three M10 bolts on each side; the nuts and bolt heads are almost always heavily corroded.

Kept in place

35 The rear axle is now held only by the weight on the springs and by the loosely bolted trailing arms. It will stay in place and be used to wheel the chassis out.

Suitable lifting gear

36 The front of the chassis is raised clear of the front axle, so the axle can be rolled away. Then the front of the chassis will be rested on a stand.

Wheelbarrow style

37 The chassis has been rolled out of the workshop and lifted clear of the rear axle and onto the trailer – destined for the scrapyard.