Assessing a Ninety/one Ten
These pre-defender classics are relatively simple to maintain and rebuild, but condition and originality need careful scrutiny
These pre-defender classics are relatively simple to maintain and rebuild
THESE trucks are ideal for anyone new to Land Rovers and the classic car scene. Most parts are in good supply, and the design simplicity means they are relatively easy to maintain and restore. The only question is how to buy a good one, or at least know exactly what your getting into when buying a truck that needs work or even a full restoration or rebuild.
Corrosion of the body and chassis is the main concern because mechanical and electrical issues can be fixed relatively cheaply and easily (except engine and transmission rebuilds). Body corrosion can require new panels and a repaint, and a bad chassis can involve replacement or significant dismantling to effect proper repairs. Prepare for reality by assuming corrosion will always be worse than it looks.
Bulkhead upper repair panels are cheap to buy, but fitting them can be a complex job. Check the bulkhead upper outer face carefully for rust, and filler
The steel front bulkhead is probably the most difficult part to repair properly, meaning many have been botched, and all need careful inspection. A magnet is useful to check whether there is steel under the paintwork. Check between the front opening vent panels and the A-posts for pinholes of rust (which will knock into something bigger) and evidence of repair. Check down the sides of the bulkhead between wing and door. There may be serious corrosion at the bottom of the A-post (and B-post on One Tens). Rust falling from above when opening the doors suggests upper bulkhead corrosion behind the interior trim. Pull floor coverings away to inspect the footwells thoroughly. In the engine compartment, check the upper outer corners of the bulkhead just above the footwells. From under the wheel arches, scrutinise the lower parts of the footwells above the chassis outriggers, and feel the outer vertical sides of the footwells (behind the wing).
Beware of unprofessional rebuilds and restorations on which the doors do not align correctly. This is not due to aftermarket panels, as is sometimes suggested, it’s poor build alignment that may need a fair amount of dismantling to put right. However, panel alignment was never a strong point on these vehicles so don’t expect perfection. Water ingress to the interior is likely to be due to defective panel and glazing seals, but also due to poor body alignment if the vehicle has been dismantled and rebuilt in the past.
Worn or rusted door hinges are easy and cheap to replace. But look for a faint vertical crease line in the door panel just back from the lower hinge. This can be caused by stress from a partly seized hinge, though more seriously the lower forward corner of the door’s inner steel frame may have rusted apart – check inside. Check along the underside of the door to see if there’s any metal remaining. Wind-up windows (earliest examples had sliders) may be loose in the frame as they are
wound down. A new winding mechanism is needed.
Taildoors suffer under the weight of the mounted spare wheel, usually cracking the inner frame. The wheel should be firmly fixed, with no panel flex when the wheel is levered by hand.
Early models had galvanised rear tub cappings, as per Series III. Later cappings were painted and tend to rust and, while replacements are available, factor in removal of the hardtop and re-painting.