Steering backlash
Earlier this year I bought an early model Defender 110 with the pre-tdi engine which is a dream to drive after my Series III. But since driving it I’ve noticed there’s far more play in the steering wheel – about 25mm – than on my Series III. I’m assuming this is why the steering doesn’t seem so accurate or responsive.
I was told there is an adjuster with a locknut on top of the steering box and I’ve located this. But, although the locknut turns, the adjuster screw in the middle just seems to turn with it. According to the manual, there should be a screwdriver slot in the adjuster, but mine has a blank end so I don’t see how it can be adjusted if the lock-nut moves with it. Is it possible to adjust this, or do I need to buy a new steering box if this is worn? John Salmon
ED EVANS REPLIES: This is the movement you feel when rocking the steering wheel back and forth. On your Series III and your Defender it should be set to a minimum, while ensuring the steering moves freely lock to lock. The procedure here applies to Ninety, One Ten and Defender models up to 1994 and should be set for minimum backlash, ensuring free movement, and with a 9.5mm maximum circumferential movement of the steering wheel. This figure applies only to standard diameter steering wheels, not to smaller sports steering wheels.
Before adjusting the backlash at the steering box, you need to check for play in all the steering joints and replace any that are worn. Adjusting the backlash is simple enough when the adjuster and locknut are free. But first support the front of the vehicle off the ground on axle stands with the rear wheels held by the handbrake or chocks, and the steering centralised. Your adjuster screw (which turns in a thread in the steering box top cover) will have a means of moving it independently of the locknut, and it will have a screwdriver slot, a hexagonal Allen key socket or a Torx socket in the protruding end. You say the end is blank, but it won’t be. The recess is often filled with grease or dirt and painted over. You’ll have to carefully pick at the end, tapping with a fine tool to dig in and reveal the means of adjustment. Clean it out very thoroughly, especially if it has a hexagon or Torx socket, to clear any rust or debris and then degrease it to prevent the tool from slipping and damaging the internal socket or deforming. Ease the locknut back and hold it with a 19mm spanner while using the correct, exactly-sized, unworn tool to turn the adjuster clockwise from above to reduce the backlash. When the backlash measured at the steering wheel is at a minimum (no more than 9.5mm), hold the adjuster while tightening the locknut. Then check again to confirm the backlash is acceptable and that the steering is free, lock to lock. Lower the vehicle and road test carefully until you’re sure it’s right. If in doubt, ask a garage to do the job.
Sometimes the locknut is seized on the adjuster, making it impossible to turn the adjuster inside the locknut. Go carefully in this situation because you’ll need some force to hold the locknut and turn the adjuster inside it, but you don’t want to damage the adjuster head by the tool slipping. Ensure the head of the adjuster is free of grease and oil before using the tool. Paint may need to be removed from the top of the locknut and the adjuster thread to allow easing oil down into the thread. Often, a sharp tap from a small hammer on each flat of the locknut will shock it free.