Regional & Seasonal: The Britannia Inn

An 18th-century inn built with timbers from historic shipwrecks serves classic Welsh springtime fare

on a hillside on the edge of the Gower peninsula, a white-painted pub overlooks the ever-changing contours of a watery landscape. This is the Britannia Inn, built in the 18th century above the marsh-ringed Loughor Estuary. For the past 10 years it has been owned by Martin and Lindsey Davies, who have lovingly refurbished it to enhance its historic features. “It must originally have been an inn with just a few rooms,” says Martin. “The beams in the restaurant are reputed to have come from ships which had been lanterned onto the shore, the locals would go down with lanterns and try to draw ships in. There’s a map of all the ships that foundered on the Gower and there are quite a lot on it because it’s a treacherous coastline.” Martin grew up just seven miles away in the village of Penclawdd, before spending six years travelling the world with Lindsey. On a visit home, his mother Joyce suggested they could run a pub, and showed them the Britannia. “We didn’t know if it was a way of getting us to stay!” he laughs. “Lindsey and I had set up a couple of restaurants before but never a pub, but we decided to take it on.” The stunning location had a lot to do with their decision. “We knew the area was gorgeous. We’re facing north towards Burry Port, with the estuary spread out below us. It’s an incredible view and always changing,” says Martin. “There are wild horses on the Gower still and they’ve learned how to avoid the high tides that come in, even periodically coming into Penclawdd. It’s what I’ve been brought up with, and looking out to the marshes and seeing the horses and foals is wonderful. It’s one of the gorgeous things about Gower, like driving through the lanes and seeing all the lambs playing in the spring.” The peninsula’s diversity is reflected in its edible riches. “The sheep come round on the marshes when the tide is out, they are brought in and taken off with the tides so it’s a lot of work for the farmers. We sell their Weobley Castle Farm salt marsh lamb in the pub. It’s important to know where your food comes from.” The changing season brings much to the table. “Spring is a great time for us. There’s so much in the local area, especially as it gets warmer. Our seafood includes wild bass, lobster, crab, mackerel, grey mullet, gurnard, and Penclawdd cockles which we serve with laverbread and samphire. There’s a lot to shout about in just our small corner of the world.” St David’s Day on 1 March is another reason to celebrate. “As the patron saint of Wales we celebrate everything Welsh. We love our traditional dishes. We do a Welsh cawl made with lamb

and vegetables. Leeks also start to come in, so we do Glamorgan sausages in miniature form, served as pre-starters which people love, and leek and potato soup.” Another delicacy is Gower asparagus. “People really enjoy it as it’s really good quality. Asparagus has such a small season, you get about four weeks if you’re lucky so you have to get it in quickly before it’s gone. I really look forward to using it.” Emerging from the colder, quieter winter months, the lengthening days and all they bring are savoured by Martin, Lindsey and their regulars. “From the start we wanted to give something back to the locals, to provide somewhere people could meet and really enjoy. It’s the locals that make the place. It’s never been my pub, it’s theirs – I just run it!”