Colourful Llandeilo’s influential past
Perched high above the banks of the wide, meandering River Tywi, on its journey from the wild Cambrian mountains, sits a bustling market town. With sweeping views across fertile farmland and undulating hills, Llandeilo has played a key role in the agricultural economy of Wales, in addition to its political, military and religious history. Today, this buoyant community retains both its strong rural identity and close connections to its past. The heart of the town is a compact cluster of predominantly Georgian and Victorian buildings. They proudly display colourful facades, ranging from pastel yellow and muted greens to deeper shades of blue and the flamboyant red of The Cawdor hotel. Picturesque Llandeilo was a favourite with the Victorians, who prized it for its natural charms and the benefits of unpolluted fresh air. In his 1880s town guide, vicar Lewis Price concluded that with, “the salubrity of its climate” and, “delightful prospect”, it was “one of the most healthy and pleasant places in the principality”. It was not the climate that attracted some of the earliest visitors, though. Evidence of two Roman forts, dating from the 1st century AD, have been found in the grounds of nearby Dinefwr Castle. They were drawn to the area by the lure of gold, mined at Dolaucothi, 13 miles to the north.
Religious importance
But it is the later inhabitants who made the most lasting marks on the settlement. Llandeilo takes its name from a 6th century saint, Teilo, who was a contemporary of David, the patron saint of Wales. Approaching the town from the south, the 70-mile-long River Tywi is crossed at Bridge Street by the largest single-arched stone bridge in Wales, completed in 1848. From here, the road heads uphill towards St Teilo’s Church, with its commanding view over the valley below. There is little precise information about Teilo’s life, although there are 20 churches dedicated to his name, as far afield as Cornwall and Brittany. In the 9th century, the religious community at Llandeilo acquired a beautifully illuminated 8th century Gospel Book, which was evidence of the area’s prestige at the time. This book remains an artistic, spiritual and cultural treasure. Handwritten notes in its margins, on local legal matters, have been identified as some of the earliest examples of written Welsh. By the end of the 11th century, the book had found its way to Lichfield Cathedral. However, a digital version can still be viewed in an exhibition in the tower of St Teilo’s. This is the oldest surviving part of a late medieval church, built in the 1400s. There has been a church on the site since Teilo’s time, but the building seen today dates from 1848-50. Erected under the supervision of architect George Gilbert Scott, it used the existing medieval foundations. For centuries, the church has been at the centre of the economic and social life of Llandeilo, which had established itself as a significant market town by the 1300s. The area around the churchyard, still the hub of the town’s trade, includes King Street and Market Street. They once hosted markets and annual fairs selling cows, pigs, horses, fish, butter and other farm produce, and Welsh flannel. Nearby, on Bank
Terrace, is the Old Bank, formerly a branch of the Black Ox Bank. This was opened in 1842, primarily to serve the drovers. The town underwent major economic expansion in the 1800s, with the completion of the bridge and the introduction of the railway. At this time, the churchyard was divided in two, creating a more accessible thoroughfare. This led to further development along Rhosmaen Street, which retains many of its Victorian architectural features. The street is still dominated by The Cawdor hotel, a symbol of the influence of wealthy landowning families, such as the Cawdors and Dynevors. Formerly the Bear Inn, the hotel was renovated for Lord Cawdor, of the nearby Golden Grove estate, in the early 19th century.
Working for the town
Today, Llandeilo is thriving, continuing to welcome visitors as it did in the Victorian era. One person whose family has had a long connection with the town is councillor Edward Thomas. Born and bred in Llandeilo, he has a strong loyalty to the town. He celebrates its strength and innovative spirit in honouring the past. He is also proud of the way the town is adapting to a changing economic climate. “Investment in local enterprise is vital for the future, together with local amenities, especially for our young people,” he says. His grandfather took over the County Press in the town in the early 20th century. It remained in the family until councillor Thomas’ uncle retired, and is still in business today. “J W Thomas printed everything from chapel reports, farm sales and raffle tickets to business stationery,” he says. “The firm also worked for various candidates at local and national elections. My father used to say he voted for the person who gave him the most work. His philosophy was to support local business, because if he did not, how could he ask them to support him? This is a philosophy I have continued.”
Illustrious ancestry
Touching the outskirts of the town, Dinefwr Park and Castle have a close historical connection. Here, the 800-acre estate boasts the surviving ramparts of a medieval castle and the Venetian Gothic mansion of Newton House. Dinefwr can trace its illustrious ancestry back to the Welsh princes of the ancient kingdom of Deheubarth, South West Wales. Deheubarth had been overrun by the Normans in 1093. It was reinvigorated by the most powerful Welsh leader of the 12th century, Rhys ap Gruffudd, The Lord Rhys. He resisted Anglo-Norman aggression and established a firm stronghold
at the castle. The visible remains today date from later constructions, mainly in the 13th century. After The Lord Rhys’ death, there was a prolonged period of bitter conflict between his descendants over succession. This was compounded by struggles to retain independence from the English crown. The struggle was lost in 1277, during the subjugation of Wales by Edward I. It was not until the 15th century that Welsh control of Dinefwr was secured once more. Rhys ap Thomas was rewarded with it in 1485 for his services to Henry VII, particularly at the Battle of Bosworth. By this time, the castle was falling into disuse in favour of the first Newton House, believed to have been built by Rhys’ grandfather, Gruffudd ap Nicholas, earlier that century. Rhys ap Thomas and his descendants continued to hold and maintain the estate, together with Newton House. In the 1660s, the Rhys, later Rice, family rebuilt Newton House in proximity to the castle in the 1660s. Its current facade, with impressive turrets, castellations and grand central porch, date mainly from the 1850s. The vibrant canopy of deciduous woodland forms a softly sloping background to the wide open spaces grazed by the resident herd of fallow deer. The mid 18th century owners, George and Cecil Rice invited the innovative Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown to visit, and advise on landscaping their grounds. The exquisite view of the building, framed by woodland trees on the Capability Brown walk, is one of the results of this co-operation. Today, the mansion hosts an exhibition depicting the estate’s history as well as acting as an atmospheric venue for events, concerts and activities.
Dedication to conservation
During the 20th century, the Dynevors fell into financial difficulty and were forced to sell off Newton House and eight acres of land in 1972. Then, in 1990, the house was bought by the National Trust, which had owned the surrounding deer park and parkland National Nature Reserve (NNR) since 1986. Since then, the site has been sensitively restored and is now managed sustainably in partnership with Cadw and the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales. Conservation lies at the heart of the work at the park. To this end, visitors can enjoy diverse activities, including badger watching, wildlife tours and dawn chorus walks. “I think by taking a less formal, more holistic approach, our visitors develop a greater affinity with the wildlife and natural environment here,” says Sophie Thomas, marketing and communications officer for the National Trust in Carmarthenshire. “That encourages their desire to protect its future. It’s the difference between showing and telling.” It is an affinity evident in the dedication of the small team of staff and volunteers, ranging in age from 15 to over 80, working cooperatively on the estate. Sophie has a long connection with Dinefwr. Originally from Llanelli, she studied media practices at university in Bristol, with a focus on wildlife and natural history. Her dissertation was based on the changing seasons at Dinefwr Park. Passionate to continue working in conservation, Sophie returned as a volunteer
“Bard of the Fleece, whose skilful genius made That work a living landscape fair and bright; Nor hallowed less with musical delight Than those soft scenes through which thy childhood strayed,” William Wordsworth, ‘To the Poet, John Dyer’
after university and took up her post in 2011. “I was more than happy to find myself, on occasion, mucking out the cattle in the morning, and then organising a wedding in the afternoon,” she says. The grounds and woodlands offer the opportunity for a peaceful walk in solitude. As well as the deer, there is the chance to spot Dinefwr’s herd of White Park cattle. A very rare ancient breed, they have distinctive black-tipped, wide-spreading horns, ears, noses and hooves. Their porcelain white coats gleam in the fields as they graze contentedly with their calves. They make ideal grazers for the estate’s hay meadow reversion project and, in turn, their future is being protected by Dinefwr’s cattle breeding programme. The estate’s historic woodlands are home to some of Britain’s oldest, ‘veteran’ trees. There are more than 300 oak trees, some over 400 years old. The woods, together with flower-rich hay meadows, bog woods and open parkland, are host to an abundance of wildlife. Late spring and early summer are a floral festival of scent and colour, accompanied by lively dawn choruses. The woodland floor is carpeted with bluebells and wood anemones, alongside dog’s mercury and primrose. Treecreepers, woodpeckers and flycatchers can be
John Dyer, ‘Grongar Hill’
spotted among the trees. Red kites and ravens glide overhead. The floodplains are the favoured roosting spots for wetland birds, with teal and wigeon among the winter visitors. Castle Woods, managed within the estate by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales, is a delightful wildlife haven to wander through. “The area reminds me of how the countryside around the Swansea valley, where I grew up, might have looked a hundred years ago,” says Rebecca Killa, the Trust’s officer. “It is a gentle landscape, with small-scale farming, using traditional methods.” She and her volunteers prefer to use old-fashioned scythes for clearing vegetation in the woods. “It’s slower, with less noise than a machine cutter, and everyone is involved,” she says. One of Rebecca’s key roles in the overall management of the woodland is maintaining a balance. “It’s important to prevent, for example, beech and sycamore taking over from ash and oak in the woods. It is also significant to allow other species to thrive, such as lichen, bats, birds and badgers. “What I enjoy so much is the variety of work throughout the year,” she says. “The spring is so beautiful, particularly with the bluebells, while the summer is mainly about path maintenance. The work in the autumn is more varied, with hedge laying taking place. The hedgerows are especially important here for the breeding population of tree sparrows.” Emerging steeply uphill from Castle Woods is the long ridge supporting Dinefwr Castle. Here, the serene views of the valley beyond the estate, with its patchwork of small
“Grass and flowers Quiet treads, On the meads, and mountain-heads, Along with Pleasure, close ally’d, Ever by each other’s side: And often, by the murm’ring rill, Hears the thrush, while all is still, Within the groves of Grongar Hill.”
hedge-lined fields, confirm Rebecca’s joy in this area. Tranquil now in the late spring sunlight, it is hard to envisage the bloody skirmishes of the past. But the lichen-clad stone of the castle remains act as a reminder. The great round keep and towering walls exude a defensive strength.
Heritage garden
Hidden in the valley is an enigmatic historic house with resplendent gardens and an equally colourful story: Aberglasney. Though its past is shrouded in mystery, a 15th century ode by Lewis Glyn Cothi, written for local patron Rhydderch ap Rhys, sheds some light on its origins. Praising Rhydderch’s husbandry skills in “nine green gardens”, together with orchards, vines and oaks, it is one of the earliest records of Welsh horticulture. It offers an impressionistic view of early Aberglasney. The mansion visible today dates from the 1600s, when it was rebuilt by its then owner, Anthony Rudd, the Bishop of St David’s. From the 17th century, the estate followed a pattern of being sold to a new family at the turn of each century, as the owners’ fortunes fluctuated. In the 18th century, it was owned by the Dyers, whose famous poet and artist son, John, immortalised the distinctive beauty of the Tywi Valley in his poem, Grongar Hill. By the 20th century, Aberglasney had fallen into decay, choked by weeds, neglected and vandalised. It was saved by the Aberglasney Restoration Trust, which purchased it in 1995 with money donated by an American benefactor, Frank Cabot. More donations from individuals, trust funds, charities and grants financed an ambitious project to reawaken the magic of former years. A tremendous amount of work was done in a very short time, with Aberglasney finally opening to the public on 4 July 1999. Further restoration work has been ongoing since, with the completion of the ground floor of the mansion in spring 2013. The once lost gardens have been rejuvenated as a Heritage Garden of Excellence. Each of its distinct areas has been created with meticulous attention to detail, beautifully entwining traditional with contemporary design. Heritage and native plants flourish alongside rare varieties from across the globe, all suited to the peculiarities of the Welsh climate. Together, they create both dazzling and subtle combinations of scent, colour, texture and shape through the year. From the Cloister Garden, Asiatic Garden, Rose Wall and borders, to Bishop Rudd’s Walk, the Stream Garden and Pigeon House Wood, they are a feast for the senses. Visitors are greeted by the Yew Tunnel on the North Lawn in front of the house. Perhaps the most venerated of Britain’s native conifers, the age-defying yew is steeped in myth and symbolism. The Aberglasney yews were dated in 1999 at approximately 250 years old. It is likely they were planted by the Dyers and trained to form an archway. By the late 20th century, neglect had led to a distortion of their shape in a tangled mass of trunks and sinewy branches.
The tunnel’s restoration is one of many ongoing projects. “Working here is a privilege and a responsibility,” says head gardener Joseph Atkin, who has been at Aberglasney since 2011. “We maintain the quality of the heritage garden, as well as enjoying creative freedom. It is a continual process of development. Gardeners are explorers.” One of Aberglasney’s most exciting innovations is the award-winning Ninfarium. Created in 2005, this garden used the seemingly simple idea of covering the decaying courtyard of the house with a vast glass atrium. This is now home to a collection of warm, temperate and semi-tropical plants, such as magnolias, orchids and palms. In contrast, looking west from the house towards Grongar Hill, the legendary Cloister Garden offers a unique glimpse into horticultural antiquity. Its complex excavation during the 1990s revealed a three-sided stone arched courtyard, including a sheltered walkway, the cryptoporticus or cloister, in the western range. Together with the parapet walkway, the courtyard was a rare survivor from the early 1600s, when formal structured design was fashionable. The grass parterre was recreated in the style of the period, when clipped grass areas would have been ‘enamelled’. This was a method of planting non-grass flowering plants to show them off. It would have included varieties from around the world, such as species of crocus, lilies and tulips. Mindful of the future, Joseph and his team embrace sustainable practices in the gardens. “I believe a garden can be both environmental and beautiful,” he says. “We combine traditional and modern techniques and take a pragmatic approach. We compost our green waste and recycle on site. And we watch our economic footprint, managing a small team and employing local contractors. We experiment with new varieties of plants and designs. At the same time, we use the same methods in seed collection as Darwin used.” Walking through the Sunken Garden, its silver water feature shimmering in the sunlight, he reflects on the evolution of the gardens. “People ask me, when was the gardens’ heyday?” He smiles, “I say, in about 50 years’ time.”
Ever charming
Leaving Aberglasney, the house and gardens disappear quickly from view. They are absorbed back into the landscape John Dyer penned as “Ever charming, ever new”. This is the landscape of the Tywi Valley that has shaped its human history. The forts, mansions, castles, churches and market halls have all been moulded to the shape of its contours. Those who live and work here have a relationship with the locality, based on respect. As well as a personal connection to the area, they also share a passion and commitment to its protection for future generations, locals and visitors alike.