Regional & Seasonal: The Luttrell Arms

In the medieval streets of a Somerset village, a cosy inn serves food with a local twist

in a small Exmoor village, a road sweeps downhill between whitewashed 18th century houses where sash windows glimmer with the lights of Christmas trees. At the end of the road, the castellated barracks and pyramidal turret of Dunster Castle stand proudly, partially hidden in a haze of leafless branches. People wrap scarves tightly around flushed faces as a chill wind rushes down the street. Some duck into the shelter of a rubble-bricked, slate-roofed inn where, inside, they cup numb fingers around glasses of hot mulled wine and take deep breaths of the rich spicy scent steaming from the rim. Husband and wife team Ann and Nigel Way rescued the Luttrell Arms from administration in 2013. “It had been on the market for quite a long time when we found it,” says Ann. “We live in Devon, so buying a place two hours away didn’t seem very sensible, but it was such a lovely building, it inspired us. We fell in love with the place.” A major project was begun to restore the 14th century Somerset hotel, maintaining its unique character and features while ensuring the rooms were comfortable and warm. “We are quite hands-on, and we like to put a personal stamp on all the pubs we work in,” says Ann. “There had been a major refurbishment approximately 10 to 15 years earlier, but the furnishings had all become very shabby. Our priorities were good beds and good showers in the rooms, and good food and drink in the bar. We wanted to create the feel of a country house, but in a village.” Situated at the northern end of the High Street, the pub is now lively with chatter from locals and visitors alike and a hub for local events. Every December, the Dunster by Candlelight festivities are held in the streets, a particularly busy time for the Luttrell Arms. A large Christmas tree sparkles with lights at the front door, and the ringing chimes of handbells can be heard. Medieval performers sweep flaming swords at one another to the marvelling gasps of the crowd. On Christmas Eve, an ancient tradition, the burning of the Ashen Faggot, is held at the bar. A bundle of ash sticks, bound together with ash whips, is carried in by a local man and thrown onto the fire. Poems are told, songs sung and local mulled cider quaffed in its honour as the wood blazes and crackles through the night. In the early days, however, Ann and Nigel had to rely on a small band of devoted helpers. “When we bought it, most of the

staff had already left,” says Ann. “Only a few who really loved the place hung on to the end. We were lucky because we had two other pubs with a loyal customer base which really helped.” With customers drawn to the Grade II* listed building, the locally sourced food served within and the medieval village of Dunster, the pub soon began to thrive. “Our head chef, Barrie Tucker, is very keen on using local, seasonal produce in an innovative way. The menu is quite fine dining, but with an Exmoor twist,” says Ann. The village itself is just within the northerly bounds of the National Park, with Dunster beach less than two miles away and the moors and woodland to the south-west. From the inn’s Secret Garden, a gate opens directly into the castle’s deer park. The motte and bailey castle, atop a high hill known as the Tor, characterises the village. A fort has stood here since the 11th century, when the now-receded sea lapped at the base of the hill. “I love the tranquility of the village,” says Ann. “Sometimes, walking down the street and seeing the castle on the hill at the end is like being in a fairy tale. You feel like you could turn back the clock.”