CHOOSING HEDGES

George has largely used hornbeam, Carpinus betulus, for hedging, partly because of its historic use and partly because of its adaptability to wet and dry conditions. “I planted 23-35in (60-90cm) plants quite close together, 12-16in (30-40cm), on the theory that this would make them go up rather than out, and this worked very well,” he says. “Hornbeam is a very quick grower and can also be kept quite thin with vigorous pruning. I planted many of the hedges against a stout trellis, partly to give the immediate effect of the finished height of the hedge. In some instances, this has been removed, but in others, where quite precise niches were required, it remains in situ and is visible in winter as an underlying structure.” Hornbeam partially retains its brown foliage in winter, but not quite as fully as beech. “However, it has a very dense network of twigs when clipped, so keeps a good winter structure,” he adds. Other hedges include green and copper beech. George has found that beech is not such a strong grower as hornbeam and not as robust in drought in its early years. Both hornbeam and beech need at least two annual clips. “The most successful evergreen hedge is definitely yew, which is not at all slow and needs only one annual clip,” he says. “Here, in heavy clay, it seems to do well, though some attention has been paid to drainage when planting.” In addition, there are hedges and mopheads of Rhamnus alaternus, which needs very good drainage, and Phillyrea latifolia, which seems tolerant of fairly wet ground. “This is surprising in that they are both native to dry Mediterranean limestone terrain,” says George. “Both were much admired in the 17th century when the range of evergreens was far more limited. During that period, several variegated varieties were available. Nowadays, Rhamnus alaternus ‘Argenteomarginata’ is the only one that I am aware of, and this is a recent variant.”